Why move to Argentina?

Why would you want to move to and live in Argentina? Was the response I got, when I told friends I was moving to Argentina, together with a raised eyebrow and quizzical expression.

Ironically, I was moving because people kept asking me “Why don’t you move to Argentina? You’d love it.”

At the time I was living in Amsterdam, restless and tired. Tired of the endless rain, excessive tourism and cramped spaces. I wanted to live in a city with flavour.  Who doesn’t want a life with flavour?

What can I say, Argentina has flavour. Every body at the time in the Netherlands was talking about it. Two friends own a house there. The future king of the Netherlands just married an Argentine, other four friends had just come back from their trip to this magical wonderland.

All these conversations inspired me to buy a book on Argentina, and I was hooked and enchanted within the first few pages.

Most Magical Place in the world

What is not to like about the idea of spending time in the ‘Paris’ of Latin America. A nation of polo playing horse fanatics and real-life gauchos (local cowboys).

A country where soccer is the religion and BBQ is the national cuisine. A country whose history is weaved so densely and dramatically you could carve it with a knife.

The country has the wild expansive plains of La Pampa, the mountains and lakes of Patagonia, the deserts up in Santa Fe and Salta. As well as the uber magical city of Buenos Aires. If it could bring tears to the eyes of Evita and millions that hear the song, it may be worth checking out.

Within weeks a trip and dry run, was booked. Could, would or should I live there.

Is Argentina worth moving to?

Doing a dry run, whenever you are planning a move abroad is recommended.

When you spend time in a country for a trial run it’s definitely not a holiday. It’s a working vacation.

You’ll spend your time researching the best areas to live.  The quality of life versus the costs of living (rent/ groceries), salaries, safety and the political climate.

It’s a great opportunity to make time to meet with locals as well as expats living there so you get real stories of the everyday challenges from both sides.

Of course, also enjoy what the country offers from polo games, top restaurants and hotel pool, deciding where to live also means checking out the perks.

Researching the Move to Argentina

Luckily, researching Buenos Aires was easy; it is an exceptionally large city, so sources of information are also available in English, such as BA times a local online newspaper.

There are also plenty of opportunities to meet locals and expats at places like Gibraltar the English pub in San Telmo, at embassies, expat or internations events.

Argentina has its own active online expat forum baexpat.com where you can delve deeper into the types of challenges you may encounter. Along with relevant solutions, or meet like-minded individuals.

 TIP: keep a healthy perspective on forums, ignore the trolls. Take it with a it a healthy sense of detachment,  and it’ll become a helpful resource.

Originally, I planned an 8-week dry run, which I extended 4 times. And ended up there for an incredible 6 months.

While there, I really wanted to get an idea of what it would be like to work in a city with 3 million inhabitants. So, I spent some of my time volunteering at BABS (British Aged Care in Buenos Aires).

It was here I had the opportunity to meet people who’d lived in Argentina for over 80 years. And trust me when I say, there is nothing like listening to first-hand stories of a countries history.

On my second day in Buenos Aires, I stumbled upon and fell in love with Puerto Madero. A small island, next to the city and is secured by the naval police. The suburb is a refuge from the hustle and bustle, it is quiet, spacious and safe.

It was also here that English built the warehouses on the harbour in the early 1900’s, while they were building the railroads.  These recently renovated warehouses add a timeless charm and are home to some of the cities best restaurants, shops and cafes.

San Telmo markets are still within walking distance, and the rest of the city is also just a hop, skip and a jump away.

Final conclusion, after 6 months dry run?

Honestly, when I first arrived in Buenos Aires, I was shocked at the populous state of what seemed a dirty city. However, it won me over hour by hour, day by day. By my 3rd week, I was looking into potential job opportunities and any which way that I could stay long-term.

I stayed until my savings ran dry, and I had no options but to go home.

After 6 months, I left Argentina, heartbroken, devastated and determined to return.

Can you, easily move to Argentina?

How you migrate to a country depends largely on the country. In Argentina, you have a few options to choose from:

1. Get company/ employer to sponsor you
2. Set up a company
3. Marry and Argentine

My plan was to go with the first option.  So, I meet with anyone I could via contacts, friends, LinkedIn, peers in my industry.

Including the Ambassador, at my countries embassy, and went to lunches that were put on by the local Dutch and English Chamber of Commerce.

Many countries will have an embassy or a local chamber of commerce who assist with cross-border trade advice and networking.

With a fully booked agenda, there was only one objective and that was to find work.  While I didn’t get a job, I did meet great people and got a wealth of advice and insight on the business landscape.

Legally moving to Argentina

Being that my best option would be to find a company to sponsor me, the reality is that this is easier said than done.  Despite my meetings, lunches and endless cups of coffee, I didn’t manage to find a sponsor in Argentina.

Language can be a real challenge when attempting to move to a country. If you are not fluent; it’ll be hard to put you to work or compete with local job seekers.

Like many other countries, for a company to sponsor a foreigner can be a costly process. One that includes fees, lawyers and paperwork.  Companies will hire you if you have specific expertise.

Or you can also try to get a job for an international company in your own country and apply to be relocated abroad.

Good Luck comes in Many Forms

Flying back to the Netherlands with a tissue in one hand and hope in the other. Expecting that it would be a near impossible task to find a company in the Netherlands to sponsor me to work in Argentina.

As luck would have it, a company that I knew just happened to be opening shop in Argentina. And within weeks, I had a job and was planning my move, as well as that of the company.

Friends I’d met, helped advise me on an appropriate salary, as the company would be giving me a local contract instead of an international one.

In a country like Argentina, excessive inflation rates need to be taken into account.  Eventually, with the contract signed, everything else was put in motion.  The real business of moving could begin.

Finally, Moving to Argentina

It was my 8th international move, so as ever practice makes perfect. My flat in Amsterdam was easily rented out via expatica.com.

The bureaucracy in Argentina like most Latin countries is phenomenal; the amount of paperwork and documentation required was second to none.

I am eternally grateful that the company’s local lawyers assisted me with my working visa and the importation of my goods. This is one move that I would not have wanted to do on my own.

As with anywhere, signing up for the utilities was not fun at all.  This was when a good friend gave me advice that served me throughout my time in Argentina and beyond:

‘When dealing with an issue: don’t start a fight or get angry. NEVER back down or accept no for an answer’.

Great strategy to put into practice everytime I was told no. Whether it was for a bank account or electricity connection. I just planted myself down, and let them know I’d be there until we resolved it.

It is incredible how many miracles happen when you have all parties working on a solution.

After the move and a chaotic dance of organizational mayhem. The paperwork was done and I had a new office, a new apartment and a new life. I could finally start living the ‘vida loca’.

Living the Dream in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires isn’t a walk in the park, although there are some great parks to walk in.  The government is both crazy and corrupt, inflation is off the scale and life can feel like a bit of a roller coaster. Depending on the day, time and place.

The city is busy, polluted and in the last few years, the economic challenges have resulted in an ever-increasing crime rate.  You need to live with both feet on the ground and be aware of how you walk and travel in town.

Despite all of this, it is one of the most incredible cities to live in.  Whatever you feel like doing, you can. Whether it’s tango at 2 am or front row seats at the Polo in November, or catching the boat to Colonia for the day.

There is a suburb for every mood, be it shopping in Palermo, dinner in China town, after work cocktails in Recoleta. Bike riding around Puerto Madero or a visit the famous Sunday markets in San Telmo.

In the words of the worlds greatest writer who is Argentine:

The Reality of Moving and Living in Argentina Click To Tweet

It was all of this that made me love every minute of my crazy, wild, temperate and magical time there.

Yes, dreams can also end between a crazy government and the need for change, so I did eventually leave Argentina. Yet in retrospect, I wouldn’t change a thing.

Just like the song, ‘Don’t cry for me Argentina’, the truth is I never really left. The magic of the country lives on in my heart and lovingly etched in my memory.

Resources:

BA Expats
Online English paper BA times
Volunteer opportunities via GoAbroador local South American website
List of foreign Embassies in Argentina
Walrus books English Bookshop
English Pub:  Gibraltar
Meet locals and practice your Spanish via Conversation Exchange or Toastmasters

Further reading, see why November is the ideal time to visit and what to do while there check out this post.

My top reading list for before, during or instead of your visit here.

A few photos are my own, the others are shared with much gratitude to these other wonderful photographers:

Eduardo Sánchez on Unsplash

Sasha • Stories on Unsplash

Nacho Rochon on Unsplash

The World of Fast Travel

Do you travel? Surprised to see how much other people cram into their travel schedule? How people can see a capital city in two days. With a “must see” list longer than the Lord of the Rings Trilogy – you can’t help but wonder how they get it all done.

You may spot these fast travellers, they will be sleeping on the boat tour, or on the bus. On route to their next destination.

They will be in the queue for hours to see the Mona Lisa. You’ll see them quickly snap a photo before moving on to the next painting. They’ve not even glanced up, savouring all the magic within the art itself. The magic that can’t be captured in a photo.

You can’t help but wonder, will they ever look at these photos? Bore others with the photos they took? Will, they remember the waiting, the painting or the trip at all? Any which way, they can tick it off their check list, and move on to whatever is next.

At some point, we’ve all been there. I recall racing through Europe with a Eurorail pass in one hand a cheap glass of wine in the other. Cities blurred into one another – I saw enough churches to last me a lifetime.

Yet now, years on, this is no longer how I view of want to travel. The destinations in my life are not a checkbox, waiting to be ticked off and seen in a hurry.

No, now I am a slow traveller. I enjoy the endless meandering through strange suburbs. Blending in with the locals and relishing each divine moment that I spend somewhere, be it home or abroad.

The World of Slow Travel

Slow travel is the opposite of trying to cram a city into two days or an entire country into a week. It is the state of being for which they special words, like ‘meandering’. It’s savouring the moment, meeting locals, and even stopping to smell the flowers.

Time is a commodity if you only have so much time off a year, and you go away for a weekend. You want that time to last, and to enjoy every precious moment of it.

Which means that you may not want to waste it in a queue to a museum. Preferring instead to find a spot to have a coffee and do some people watching on a terrace. All while, tasting the local cuisine, studying the locals they go about their day.

How to Travel Slowly

There are many ways to travel slowly. It is often a good idea to either scrape your ever extensive ‘checklist’, or exchange it for a few top priority items.

Through being spontaneous and open to what comes up, time also slows down.

When the old gentleman in a carpet shop offers you a cup of tea, why not take it rather than rush out to the next shop.

Sitting down and having a chat with a local gives you new perspectives into someone else’s life. It is an opportunity, that you would otherwise never get the chance to experience – and can’t be bought.

A simple cup of tea can end up being worth its weight in gold. When you look back on your trip years down the road, it will be this simple cup of tea, rather than a church that you remember.

Do carry a map if you feel you need to, or if you worry about getting lost. Ask your local hotel or hosts, if there are any dodgy areas to stay clear of. Depending on the country it’s always good to know where they are and to be sure to avoid them.

Then, head off into the wild blue yonder. Leave your watch and phone behind, and see the world unravel before your eyes. With the wind in your hair rather than a checklist of expectations in your pocket.

The best thing about slow travel is that you don’t even need to go abroad. How often do you meet locals who have never been to a nearby landmark or tourist haunts nearby? Perhaps, in one form or another, we are all one of them?

Wouldn’t it be fun to cultivate some curiosity and uncover stories and history in our local area?

Exploring the world outside your door

In this era of conscious travel, we are all concerned about our ecological footprint. The resources spent in getting from A to B, and at times suffering the masses of tourists doing the same. So why not practice slow travel by exploring the world outside our door.

It’s not that hard, to find things to do.  Perhaps visit a local museum, or tourist office to see what’s on.

Right now, I am travelling and living back in the UK. My ultimate form of slow travel, by spending months in one place.  At this point, I am in the Cotswolds and have uncovered an extensive group of Long Barrows, (megalithic burial sites).

Only a few locals know about them, and fewer go to visit them. If you are living or plan on visiting the UK, these sites are pretty easy to find. There are a few websites where you can see what are near you or a short to long drive away.

Here are two I’ve been using:
http://www.megalithic.co.uk
https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/

Of course, if you are not in the UK, there is always the internet. So much and the world at the tip of our fingers, a wee bit of sleuthing will give you a small taste into the life of a local Indiana Jones.

Be sure to pack a sense of Adventure

What treasures lay waiting around each corner. Treasures being new stories, lives, and images waiting to be discovered and shared.

The best news ever, is a sense of Adventure is free, and portable, you can take it with you anywhere.

Use it as a tool, to travel through the world and life nice and slowly. Savour, experience and cherish each and every moment life offers to you.  You’ll see life and the world through fresh eyes and who knows what you will find!

Big thanks to Simon Matzinger on Unsplash for featured image.

This famous quote is more than true. When you revisit a place, much of it will have changed. You will have changed, everything evolves or devolves as the case may be. There will be challenges, be they old or new.

Which is the situation I currently find myself in, here in the United Kingdom.  It’s a very different country that it was 20 years ago.

The Current State of Affairs

I’ve now been here for awhile and the plan was relatively simple; find work and house sit while I am looking for work.  Once I’ve found a job I like, I’ll move into the area and settle down – voila!!

Sounds pretty uncomplicated and like a plan, sounds easy to implement, so I should be rocking and rolling in no time…

The Key Challenges of Moving to the UK

However, there have been a few hiccups, roadblocks and obstacles on the way, as can be expected with any move abroad.

Here were my challenges and solutions, where they exist. It’s was hard to put the list together in order of priorities. It’s a wee bit of a chicken and egg scenario. You see before you get the one you need the other, or so you will see:

1. Proof of Address

Now if you arrive and immediately rent a property, you won’t have this issue. However, for the most part, you will need a proof of address.

Most institutions such as a bank will request to see a utility bill or a letter from the tax office or a bank statement. The bank statement will be especially hard, as you’ll read below. You can’t open one until you have an official proof of address.  Herein lays the catch-22.

Now, this is going to be tricky if you are staying with friends, renting a room or house-sitting, as I have been doing.

I did read advice on one forum that you can register to vote wherever you are staying and you can then use this as a proof of address.

I didn’t want to risk trying this, as it could also trigger a local council tax levy in my name.   As I am house-sitting this is not something I want to risk. If you are renting it could be a solution.

One bank recommended that I register with a doctor and use that as proof of address.  Which I did do, yet they also needed (you guessed it) a proof of address.

2. National Insurance number

To work in the UK you’ll need a national insurance number.  Luckily, I already had one – or so I thought…  Sadly, it couldn’t be found in the system.  So after many phone calls, I made an appointment with a local job center to request a new one.

If you are new to the UK it is easy enough to apply, you need to call up the job center and make an appointment. Depending on where you live this can take a few weeks. They will send you a confirmation letter for the appointment. And if you don’t have a utility bill you can use this letter as proof of address for the appointment.

You do need to take your International ID/ Passport.  Keeping in mind right now, depending on where you come from you need a visa for permission to work in the UK.

If you are European and have an EU Passport, at this moment in time you can still apply and have the right to live and work in the UK. After Brexit, if and when that all goes ahead, the situation may change.

I’ve written about it here.

Once you have your appointment the National insurance number will be sent to you, this can take anywhere from 5 – 21 days.

Please note that your National Insurance number can not be used as proof of address. Which leads me to the next obstacle:

3. Opening a Bank Account

This so far has been the most frustrating experience. So much so, that I’ve decided NOT to open a bank account.

I don’t have any proof of address I can use. So, I’ve simply given up. But not without finding a suitable solution.

Thankfully, there are modern digital options that you can choose from instead.

To meet my nomadic needs, I’m using two financial companies:

Revolut:*  They are ideal if you still have an account overseas in a different currency and/or you travel regularly. You can upload money from your bank account abroad and then exchange that currency as needed. They give better rates than you would get via your own bank.

They will send you a card, which is a prepaid card. So it doesn’t work in all online shops, but it works well enough in the local ATM’s, stores and for most online purchases.

The only downside is that they don’t give me a  local account,  with which to receive payments. There is a handy request payment link that people can pay into with a credit card.

But a company who is hiring you will want to pay into a real account.  Which is why I opened:

Monese*: This online, mobile account was simple to set up. It gives me a local account that I can use here to accept payments.  You can access it via your mobile, you can request a debit card. And in no time you are off and running.

It is a whole new world of banking, which is much more consumer focused, easy to use, with fewer costs and paperwork.

There are other companies that I looked into, but these two are trustworthy and meet my needs.  With that done, I am good to go.

Side note: If you would like to open a Monese Account, and get a £10 welcome gift, when you open and top up the account, just use my code: HUZEYS9F

My last challenge remains to be seen in how and when it’ll affect me:

4. The Dreaded Brexit

I wrote a post earlier about Brexit. While it doesn’t yet affect me directly.  One feels a gist of the overall unrest that exists in all levels of government, business, and society on the whole.

Ferries are complaining they have fewer bookings for next year,

pharmacies are concerned about running out of medicine. The general public doesn’t know what to expect.

The mainstream media doesn’t help the situation, as it milks every roundabout fear that they can scour up out of whatever garbage can their digging in. Only time will tell what is and isn’t justified.

For now, put your seatbelt on, and hang tight – like any of life’s roller-coasters I am sure we’ll come out the other side laughing or crying. And either way, we’ll brush ourselves off, soldier on. Heading right into the next challenge that life offers us.

So here I am, back in the UK for now, not as settled as I would like to be yet. However, already much more settled that I was.

Hope you find some of this advice useful to help you to prepare and tackle any future move you may have planned to the UK.

The photos are thankfully provided by Unsplash:
Feature photo by Bruno Martins on Unsplash
Night photo by Robert Almonte on Unsplash

Putting ‘Nature’ and ‘London’ in the same sentence may seem like an oxymoron. However, you may be surprised at how green and lush London can be once you know where to look.

As a visitor to the city, there are plenty of great museums and places to visit such as the British Museum, Tate Modern, Victoria and Albert Museum.  All super places to visit, however, too many hours indoors can leave you feeling like you’ve had the life sucked out of you.

Which is when you might want to escape to a park, such as Hyde Park, Regents or Green Park. Be warned that these may be full of all the same people you ran into in the Museum. The solution is to find a few less famous but more fabulous greens spots around the city.

These quiet lush places are the go-to when you start to feel a bit drained. A bit of fresh air and a place to recharge is the perfect natural remedy, and here’s a list of my favourites:

St Dunstan in the East Church

This church is tucked away in the back streets of the financial district, and can feel somewhat clandestine solely by the fact that many people that work nearby don’t even know of its existence.

It withstood and was patched up after the great fires of 1666, before being bombed during the blitz in 1941. Many of the structural walls of the old church remain standing although the roof is gone.  It’s a treat to watch nature reclaim the space.  There is a garden and benches to sit and while you enjoy a coffee or lunch.

It’s a stone’s throw from the Tower of London, so worth a visit before or after your tour.

Cost:     Free
Address: St. Dunstan Hill, London

Hampstead Heath

Hampstead Heath particularly beautiful park thanks to its lakes, easy accessibility and incredible views of the sprawling city that it overlooks. It’s the perfect place for a picnic – depending on the weather – or just a stroll to stretch your legs and get some fresh air and exercise.  Cost: Free

Inner City Squares

There are so many to list, it is really best to look on google maps and pick one nearby to wherever you might be on the day.

Go grab a takeaway coffee or a sandwich and find a quiet bench to sit on as you watch the seasons float on by.

A few of my favourites are Bloomsbury, Russell and Soho Square. Each with their own history, stories and famous plaques that are plastered on the affluent buildings nearby.  Cost: Free

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

Listing themselves as the most famous Botanic Gardens in the world, when you arrive you’ll see why.

You can visit for a whole day and still not see it all.  There are glass-houses, endless walking paths, treetop walkways, flower gardens as well as libraries of antique plant books, fungi specimens as well as a science, educational and specimen areas.  After all this, you might also want to recharge in the cafe, where you can sit and relax, enjoy the fresh food and endlessly green views.

Cost:     £13.75 for adults, £3.50 for children
Address: Kew Gardens

Chelsea Flower Show

This is a big colourful bonanza is held once year in May, and shows of the best of the best of the English flowers and gardens.  You’ll see where the term an ‘English Garden’, comes from, as it’s certainly no half-baked affair.  This is a serious business!

For the those of us that are easily enchanted by the colours, shapes, and smells of all that flowers offer us, it is the perfect way to spend an afternoon.

The Royal Horticultural Society can be found here and hosts a range of events throughout the country, so even if you are not in London in May, you can visit their calendar to find other events that may be of interest.  Website: Chelsea Flower Show

There is an incredibly beautiful movie based on the real-life story of Mary Reynolds. Who was the youngest winner of the Chelsea Flower Show. She works to bring elements of the wild back into our parks and gardens.

The Dare to be Wild Movie can be found on Amazon.

Hackney City Farm

There aren’t just lush green gardens to visit, in some places you can also pitch in and get your hands dirty. You can even visit and pet the animals on the farm, stop in at the shop and buy produce that is grown here on the farm.

Whether you have kids or if you just feel like doing something completely different while in town by visiting and supporting a local initiative, then head over to Hackney City Farm. The cost to visit: Free

Haringey Parkland Walk and Bat Project

There is a lovely Parkland walk in North London. It will take you along an old railway line, which is so incredibly rich in foliage you may be mistaken for thinking that you are in the countryside.  You’ll come across an old unused station that nature has reclaimed, and at the end of the walk you can visit the local Bat Project.

The bats are sleeping, undisturbed during the day, which is why it’s most shut off to the public.  However, it still has is a gorgeous spot in an ‘Adam’s Family kind of way’.

There are always ongoing projects to protect wildlife around London. If you would like to keep an eye on what is going on, or if you live or are visiting for a longer period you can volunteer and participate in the projects by going to Wild London website.

Cost: Free
Address:  Parkland Walk, Haringey
Map and information here

Visiting these Lush Green Foreign worlds without having to step outside:

For those that would love some inspired reading, either while you are on the tube (underground) or have a long-haul destination.

Or perhaps you are an armchair traveller, you can still enjoy it all from the comfort of your own home.

I highly recommend these books to put you in the mood, or to inspire your love of nature, travel and endless green gardens:

• The Signature of Things by Elizabeth Gilbert.
• Gathering Moss, A Natural and Cultural History of Moss, by  Robin Wall Kimmerer.
• Earthy joys by Philippa Gregory, Historical, Fictional and Green.
• The Secret Life of Plants & The Hidden Life of Trees will have you looking at plants and trees in a whole new way.  Did you know they’re telepathic? That they faint before you even think of riping a leaf off… so much fascinating reading.

Greenery is always is worth visiting:

Wherever you go, even in the biggest cities in the world finding a bit of time to enjoy the greenery around us is beneficial to us, our health and beneficial to the plants and trees. It’s our appreciation and involvement that keeps local councils aware of the importance of these spaces in our lives. Whether we live there or we are just a visitor passing by, we all need a little bit of greenery and fresh air in our lives.

Other articles/ resources that may interest you:

Stunning green Spaces in London via Secret London
Tours by locals 
25 Stunning Green Space in London by Timeout

Stunning photos, thanks to:
Hampstead Heath Photo by Amadeusz Misiak on Unsplash
Kew Gardens:        Photo by Jack Young on Unsplash

Argentina is an incredible place to visit, yet there are some times of the year that are better than others.

Here is the rundown on what to do, where to go and why ‘November’ is the best month to plan your visit to Argentina.

# 1. Whales watching, Peninsula Valdes

The whales come into the Peninsula Valdes with their newly born calves on their journey to the Antarctic. It is here they stay here for a time in safer, nutrient-rich waters while the calves grow, before moving further south in December.

To go and see them this closely is a once in a lifetime opportunity that can’t be missed.  I went out with a local company called ‘Botazzi’.  We were very respectful of the whales by not going too close to the whales, as we didn’t want to infringe on their space. However, they did come up to us, to hang out near the boat.

We were surrounded by 7 whales with their calves.  The mothers were diving for food, while their young stayed near the surface.

These elegant masters of the sea were continually singing to their young and communicating with each other.  Surrounding us with a mystical orchestra of whale sounds. There wasn’t a person on the boat who wasn’t touched by the experience.

Orca Whales:

There is also the opportunity at this time of the year to go and watch the Orca whales, which I didn’t take.  The Orca’s come up at this time of the year to feed on the sea lions and penguins that come into the area.  For them, it’s a seasonal buffet of wildlife, and they come all the way up into the shallow water to snap up their next meal.  However, be sure you have a strong stomach (unlike me) as it is nature at its rawest and most brutal.

If you are staying in the area for a night, I recommend you stay at La Casona Del Rio – a family B&B.  You’ll feel at so at home you may never want to leave.

# 2. Gaucho Festival, San Antonio de Aerco

The Festival de Tradition (Gaucho Festival) is a modest local affair, it was surprising how few locals in Buenos Aires are aware of it or come to see it. It’s normally on around the 10th – 11th of November and may be moved if it is raining.  For 2018 you can find further details here.

San Antonio de Areco is a small country town that comes to life while the event is in town. There are a few local shops that sell traditional Argentina wares such as Mate’s, Silver jewellery and leatherwear.

It also has a unique Gaucho Museum in homage to the famous Gaucho’s (cowboys) of the countryside that is worth visiting. The event is held behind the museum.

It is the event of the year where all the local Gauchos compete against each other in some of the riskiest feats on horseback you are ever likely to see.

It is Argentine country life at it’s most laid back and finest, you’ll find kids and whole families turning up on their horse. Everyone drinking the famous yerba mate, and of course, there is a big Asado (BBQ – if you are vegetarian bring your own sandwich) to enjoy.

You can easily catch the bus up to San Antonia, attending the event itself is free. If you’d like to book a tour or visit a local working farm for a day out and a BBQ this local tour company ‘Areco Tradicion‘ can help you organise it.

# 3. Polo Open, Buenos Aires

The Polo in Argentina is the finest in the world. Most of the top international polo players are Argentine and spend most of the year playing in abroad. Yet they always come home to play in the Argentine Open which in November/ December.  So it’s the best against the best, which will have you sitting on the edge of your seat throughout the game.

While in many countries Polo is a luxury affair, in Argentina you can have it any which way. On the one side of the field, you have the stands which cost a bit more than the normal seats and you’ll be surrounded by more foreigners and affluent Argentines.

On the other hand, you can get the cheaper tickets.  These tickets give you access to the side seats, that are closer to the field and the horses and in the middle of the Gauchos and campesinos (country folk).

At halftime, everyone rushes to the bar where it’s a just one big gathering of polo fans.  It’s a serious sport and a dangerous one – which is why the risk-taking, fearless Argentines excel in it – and who make it a pleasure to watch.

The event is spread over 4 weeks, and most locals only attend the finals, so tickets are easily purchased at the gate before the game.

To find the most up-to-date information visit the website of the National Polo Association Argentina.

Best hotel to stay in while in Buenos Aires while rubbing shoulders with the Poloista’s or at least other polo fans is the Faena Hotel in Puerto Madero.

# 4. Jacaranda’s are in Bloom

While this may not sound like much, it will be when you see it for yourself.  Most large cities with a similar population look and feel like concrete jungles. Not Buenos Aires, throughout summer the trees give you shade and shield your view of the buildings behind them.

Yet in November the Jacarandas come into bloom and throughout the city and Puerto Madero you will come across a whole sea of Purple Flowers.

These contrasts assure that every photo will have a touch of contrast and magic.

# 5. International Jazz Festival, BsAs

For anyone who is into Jazz or live music – the biggest Jazz Festival in Argentina takes place in November. It supports both national and international artists, playing everything from Jazz to bebop and Nuevo Tango.

With many of the events being free to attend. The program is available on the government’s website, where you can find this year’s dates, bands, and venues.

Another live music experience that you can see any time of the year is Fernando Fierro, who started off their careers at the San Telmo markets. As their popularity grew they opened their own venue and offer the best alternative tango night and experience in Buenos Aires.

To get into the flavour of the Tango, before you go, be sure to read the Tango Singer.

# 6. Gay Pride, Buenos Aires

Gay Pride takes place annually in November celebrating not only the one day, but there are plenty of celebrations spread out over the week.

The parade starts at the Governments Casa Rosada (Pink House) and takes over the city from there. You can find more information here.

# 7. Night of the Museums

Buenos Aires is one of the most nocturnal cities you will ever visit, with most tango bars opening between 1-2 am (yes that is very late at night or early in the morning).

Yet, while you can visit a Milonga (tango club) anytime, the Night of the Museums is on once a year.

All the museums are open and many have special events to celebrate the evening. Free buses and local taxis can take you from one spot to another, and their website has a map with all the museums participating.

# 8. Iguazu Waterfalls

November is a great time as it’s just at the end of winter and heading into summer.  These are some of the most stunning waterfalls in the world.

There is a discrepancy between Brazil and Argentina both claiming their side is the best. I advise you to make that decision for yourself. There are many tours taking you from one side of the other, or you can organise this for yourself.

Keep in mind that you may need a visa if going into Brazilian side depending on where you are from. This can change at any time, so if you would like to go to both sides it is worth investigating before you go.

Staying at the La Aldea de la Selva hotel puts you in the middle of the Forest near the falls, which means you can enjoy nature and the butterflies while having breakfast in the garden.

# 9. Punta del Este, Uruguay

Ok, I realize this isn’t Argentina. However, due to the amount of Argentines there in January, it feels like it’s an extension of Buenos Aires.

While getting an affordable place to stay here in December or January in near impossible.  So November is the perfect time to visit as everything is open and won’t break your budget.

If you are looking to escape Buenos Aires for a day catch the Buquebus over to Colonia for a day.  It is an old colonial Portuguese town with art galleries, craft shops, and great restaurants.

# 10. Patagonia

By November the snow has cleared off the mountains and the sun golden rays will be bouncing off the lakes. Hiking paths will be open or you can sit inside, kick back and enjoy the incredible views.

This is the place for fishing, hiking and nature enthusiasts.  One of the most spectacular trips to make is the drive through the Seven Lakes, this will take you past some of the most spectacular lakes in Patagonia.

For places to stay and use as a base Bariloche is a mini-Latin Switzerland, with wooden houses and chocolate shops. Most ideal hotel is Hotel Tunquelén*, perfect views over the lake of the mountains.

Do you want to know more about Argentina? Check this out: Things to do in Salta

Photo of Iguazu by Julia Caesar on Unsplash
Photo of Pantagonia by Delfina Iacub on Unsplash

Ever dream of escaping your everyday life?

Would you like to escape to your own Magical Faraway Kingdom? Wand and princess outfit not required (although you can bring them if you wish).

Do you ever imagine yourself, swept away off on a medieval pilgrimage – such as the tales of old:

“In a faraway kingdom, in a mythical age – you arrive at the doors of the fort as the sun sets off in the distance. Your horses’ pace is ever steady, yet you know that he’s tired after a long days ride.   You’ve arrived at the right time of the day, as the tide is out and you are able to cross the causeway to the Monastery.  Where you leave your horse at the stable and find yourself a suitable room above the inn.”

*sigh, dream*, what one wouldn’t give for a horse and room at the inn…

Have you envisioned checking out of your life for a few days to escape to a place so far from your everyday reality? It’s just the break you need to give your mind, spirit, and soul a well-deserved break that it needs.

You might be asking yourself if places like this still exist, and if so where.

Let’s uncover where you can find the keys to this faraway kingdom and unravel some of its mystery, that magical kingdom is ‘Mont St. Michel’ in Brittany, France.

The Pilgrimage of Getting to Mont St Michel by Horse, Carriage or Magic Wand

The mini fairy tale above did happen, albeit without the horse, and it’s not as far away or impossible as you might think. Although it is a bit of an adventure to get there. So, be sure to bring a travelers knapsack in which you keep a good book and a jar of patience.

I brought a very special book on this journey, one that I’d been waiting to read till I was on a real pilgrimage of my own Art of Pilgrimage: The Seeker’s Guide to Making Travel Sacred.  This book was a perfect inspiration and gave me endless food for thought on my adventures during my stay at the Island.

The best route, depending on where you are coming from is via Paris, by air or over land.  Ideally, if you are able to hire a car or drive – as it’s a bit out of the way and a car gives you the extra freedom.

If, however, you are like me – the French and their style of driving are likely to have you in a panic – never fear, there are other options.

There is a train from Paris, to Rennes and from there you can catch the bus or shuttle.  Please find the most up-to-date options, and bus times here on Rome2Rio.

Do take heed: it is best that you are in time for the last bus, if the tide comes up you may otherwise find yourself stranded in Rennes for the night.

Or, if you are determined to get there as I was, it’ll cost you a small fortune for a taxi.

Is there a bed fit for a Princess above the Inn?

Perhaps you have a secret inkling that you too were once a prince or princess. Wishing that you could spend your time trekking across many lands on horseback – full of adventure, dwarfs, and elves…

You’ve seen the Hobbit, or read Sci-Fantasy books and there is always a wondrous room above the Inn.  These Inns do exist and there are a few of them located in Mont Saint Michel for you to stay in.

These are magical places to stay, firstly due to the fact that they are so quaint, that you half expect a Hobbit or Aragon to come walking in through the door. Secondly, most tourists come in during the day on a tour, if you are staying on the isle itself you’ll have the village streets to yourself in the evening and first thing in the morning.

I stayed at Le Mouton Blanc, which has since my stay been refurbished. The real experience is the view outside, the partly lit and magical windy paths upon which the tourists slowly exit the fortress.

Before you know it, it is evening and the streets have become quiet, the medieval shop fronts glisten and twinkle with mystery. The aromas from the Inns restaurant downstairs starts to travel up to your room. You can be lazy and glad to be able to eat downstairs at the Inns Resturant.

Like most restaurants on the island, it’s French – from the open fire to the wine, bread, and candles – it creates an atmosphere from times gone by. I tried the hearty French soup, that tasted as good today as it would’ve if you’d stopped at the Inn 500 years ago.

What’s a Princess to do, once she reaches the Fort

Sadly, Mont St. Michel doesn’t have dwarfs or elves. Better yet, it has a dragon!

St Michel, of course, was the angel who slew the dragon, so you’ll spot signs of their presence everywhere.

In the statues, shops, and artwork around the Abbey.

A word of wisdom on getting the best photos is set the alarm clock and get up early.

At the crack of dawn, there will be no tourists, and you’ll have the whole magical place to yourself.  You can meander down the cobblestoned streets, enjoy taking endless photos without anyone in them.

You may with a bit of imagination even envision King Arthur and his men riding out of the mists at any given moment.

Free Sunday Morning Recital in the church

The Abbey on Mont St Michel is a working one, Monks and Nuns still live there as the did once upon a time.  It means you’ll share the space with them, as well as the ringing bells that calls them to service.

If you are lucky enough to be there on a Sunday be sure to catch the mass, held at the main chapel at around 10 am.  The soft singing and chants of the choir ring out through the towers of the monastery and will leave you in tears and the purest state of bliss.

It will leave you with goosebumps and a peace in your heart that is not comparable with anything else.  While I didn’t intend to sit in on the mass, I am incredibly grateful that I did.

Tricks for avoiding the crowds without the Cloak of Invisibility

While Mont St. Michel is magical, the place is quickly overrun with hoards of people as soon as the morning tours start arriving.  It’s like a real-world Disney with real-world magic and that is something that everyone wants to come and experience.

If you’d rather not hang out with the masses – then this is the perfect time to head off and explore the rest of the area.  You can walk across the causeway and visit shops on the mainland, go hiking in the Dunes or visit other nearby historic villages such as Dinan.

The outer edges along the shoreline if the tide is out is also a great spot to wander and take photos of the iconic island rising up over the causeway.

The true Magic of Mont St Michel

The most enchanting aspect of Mont St Michel is simply Mont St Michel, whether it is strolling down its characterful alleys. Peering into the small shops selling trinkets and religious paraphernalia. The old-fashioned cafes serving delicious French pastries and restaurants lit with candle-light.  The magic hangs in the air and sweeps you away to a simpler era when like you, many pilgrims came by here looking to experience the magic and get a warm place to sleep.

Spending a few days is enough, especially when you sleeping on the island itself. You can make the most of the varies tides, the local wildlife and enjoy the peace and quiet of the Abbey.

The trick is to enjoy a touch of slow travel, let yourself be swept away to a place where little has been touched by the hand of time.

My last tip is to leave the real world at the threshold as you enter this enchanted place, and let the grace and magic in.

p.s. If you do see a dragon, Aragon or a hobbit, please be sure to let me know.

Do you like Giving your money to Banks?

Have you saved up your hard-earned pennies to go travelling?  Put money aside, gone without a few luxuries to make sure you have a nice bit of savings in your bank.  You trust it will last the whole trip and you’ve counted out and guestimated a rough daily budget that you’ll need for the time you are abroad?

Then you may be annoyed to see that your bank is devouring bits of your budget in hidden fees and unfavourable exchange rates.

The Dreaded Exchange Rate

Have you ever checked the exchange rate online, and then look at your bank statement in surprise to see that your calculations were way off?

It is the same if you exchange cash. The currency exchange office will often charge you a fee and depending on the location give you a rate that can vary greatly from what you saw online.

Now, I do understand that there is a buy and sell rate. However, no matter how you twist it, someone is pocketing the difference, and it’s not you or me!

I would prefer my hard-earned cash to be mine for as long as possible – and to take me as far as it can when I am travelling.

Opening a local Bank Account Abroad

Whether you are a digital nomad, expat, flexpat or long-term traveller to compensate for these costs you may want to open a bank account abroad.

Now, this isn’t as easy as it sounds.  I’ve been in England now for 2 months and I still don’t have all the required documentation I need to open an account.  As I’ve been house-sitting and living with friends so I don’t have proof of a permanent address.  Without proof of address, I simply can’t open an account.

One day, as I struggled to pay for a train ticket online – I had a mini-meltdown.  Ok, ok, will be honest it was a HUGE meltdown.

I was unable to pay with my Australian credit card, and the website wouldn’t accept PayPal.  I couldn’t pay in person as I had no money in my credit account either at the time.

While I was frustrated, annoyed and reasonably pissed off – I went searching for a solution. Surely in this day and digital age, there has got to be a solution.

I scoured the internet for advice, researching prepaid cards and then stumbled upon ‘Revolut’.

Revolut, a Financial Revolution

I signed up, and they sent a card to me within a few days.  The card is linked to my Australian Bank account, from where I can transfer money back and forth. I do this via my mobile, you do need to be able to download the app on your phone.

You can have different accounts in different currencies depending on where you are travelling to. So, I have an Australian $ account and one in £ British pounds.  I upload money to my $AUD account and then exchange it over to £GBP.

The exchange rate is a huge improvement over what my bank or currency exchange shop offers. Last week I exchanged money at the post office and at the same time via revolut. On $100 there was a £7 difference, this equals a cup of coffee with a brownie, and a day passes on the bus. There are a lot of things I would rather spend my £7 on.

The costs of Revolut

There is a standard account available for free. However, since I am travelling and using it a lot, I’ve found it more viable to get a premium account. This costs £6.99 per month, and there is a small % cost for transferring money into the account.

However, I am still saving a significant amount if I compare it to the unfavourable currency exchange rates, and international and ATM fees that my Australian bank charges me.

I can use the card for online purchases and withdraw cash at an ATM.  Thus avoiding the international transaction fees that I would otherwise also incur from my bank (ever get the idea my bank is ripping me off?  I do).  If you have an Australian bank account you will pay an international transaction charge on an overseas purchase.

The only downside thus far, is that it really is linked to your phone. So when I broke my phone I initially had issues accessing the app. To compensate for this I suggest if you do get a card, download the app on your iPad or any device you can so that you can still access it easily. I now have it on my iPad, so the problem is solved.

To me, it’s made a world of difference. I’ve been doing freelance work, and I can send a link which helps clients pay straight into my Revolut account. I can pay for my groceries, get cash out and know that I am not paying excessive rates to access my own money.

Perhaps this is one of the main reasons I haven’t made too much of an effort to open a bank account here. Why should I pay extra costs for a service I don’t need when I have everything covered?  Especially as my Revolut account and card are a more viable, affordable and money-saving solution.

Get Wise, with Wise Transfers

I’d also recommend Wise transfers, the ideal solution when I needed a local bank account number so that I could accept a foreign payment. As I’d left Australia, the government finally agreed to payout my pension fund but only into an Australian bank account, and my own accounts were long closed and it’s almost impossible to open a new account from abroad.  I set up a wise account and used that as an account for them to pay into, as they also do currency conversion, I could then transfer the AUD into GBP and transfer it into my actual account.

There are always a lot of hoops to jump through when moving and living abroad when it comes to international transactions, how and where you can open a bank account and what you need to do so. While we all understand there are some people who do it to launder money, most of us flexpats/ or digital nomads just want to be able to earn money, get paid and access it in whatever currency we need at the time with the minimum amount of costs.

With a bit of pre-planning and thought we can, and there are some great companies and services that can help like Revolut, and Wise.

Wise Transfers sign up Link.

If you are interested, you can sign up or find out more here www.Revolut.com*

With a wave of a magic wand, I take you back in time

Imagine you wake up in your quaint Cotswold cottage, the year is 1773. You make your way into the main room, squeezing past the immense dobby loom. This state of the art weavers loom takes up most of the cottage’s space with its 4x3x4 meter frame. You yawn, stretch and make your way over the gruel that’s left for you. Your partner and the kids have already gone to work in the Fulling Mill nearby.

It’s the start of the new era. The invention of the flying shuttle now means you can man your loom alone; no help needed. This increases the work that you can do in a day. You taste the future and the world seems full possibilities.

You eat finish your gruel, get dressed and start work. You push the lever down with your foot, pull the release for the shuttle and beat down the threads.

Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat…

On and on. After an hour, you stretch your muscles, they ache, it’s always the same, always in the same spots. But what can you do, the fabric has to be made. You know firsthand, having learned the hard way – that you need to keep a rhythm, so the cloth remains even. You need to keep a steady tandem going for the rest of the day. That will be for another 13 hours. You start to sing your favourite rhyme; it’ll keep you going and give you a steady beat to work by. It’s only 13 more hours, just like it was yesterday and just like it will be tomorrow:

Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat…

With a wave of a wand, I take you back to the present.

Are you tired yet? I felt tired when I saw the looms and heard how many hours the weavers once worked. They worked on looms so big that it left no room in the cottage for furniture. Which, considering people worked 14 hour days, there was little to no time for lounging anyway.

I learned all about the history and process of weaving on a recent tour of two Mills in Nailsworth. Located in the once prosperous Cotswolds valleys of the United Kingdom. The last tour, of Ebley Mill, covered the local history and the building itself. While, the tours of Gigg and Dunkirk Mill go more into the art of weaving and making cloth, as well as its evolution over time.

Learning to Weave at Gigg Mill

I am not new to weaving, as I have done workshops in the past. Yet, nothing that could have prepared me for the size of the Looms at Gigg Mill. Our tour guide taught us about the process and terminology before letting us try out hand on the smaller loom. He then demonstrated how the flying shuttle works on the larger loom. John Kay invented the shuttle back in 1973, pretty high tech for the time.

There is also a machine loom on site, which once again sped up the process of weaving, as you can see in the photos the were mills full of them. We saw it in briefly in action, what a heavy, noisy affair.

A Quick stop for Photographs at Egypt Mill

While Egypt Mill isn’t part of the tour. It is a stunning refurbishment of an old Water Mill into a bar, restaurant, and hotel. While in all honesty the food and coffee were below par – it is still worth stopping at for a few photos.

I recommend walking from Gigg Mill to Dunkirk, you not only get to pass Egypt Mill on the way. But the path itself is a picturesque footpath/bike lane and part of the famous Cotswold way. It weaves through the trees and alongside the river that would have once powered the Mills.

Finishing off the Cloth at Dunkirk Mill

In recent years, Durnkirk Mill has been transformed into stunning apartments. A caveat for getting planning permission was to keep on of the old water wheels functioning as it once did. And to allow the Stroudwater Textile Trust to run a small museum in the building.

It in this museum we get to learn about the last steps in the process for making cloth. We learned about Fulling; that bangs and squashes the cloth. This binds the fiber together, creating a thicker, felt like cloth. There are two machines, the guide turned one on for a few seconds. Which was a complete assault on the senses.

It is so loud and violent that it leaves my teeth clattering, and their vibrations echoing through my skull. I have no idea how anyone could be anywhere in the vicinity, let alone work there day and night. I am not surprised to hear that those that worked in the mill were deaf.

But, the next machine was still a finer invention than the one before, which had you stomping in a barrel. Similar to making wine. Only instead of grapes, they added ammonia and fullers earth. Which doesn’t sound too bad until you hear at the time the natural ammonia would have been urine. So, not sure if I would rather be stomping in urine or deaf… Not great choices.

Thankfully, there were newer improved inventions that followed.

A Power of a Water Mill in Action

It was an incredible thrill to see the large water mill turned on (see video below). Its exceptional bulk takes up much of the space. Luckily it is well protected to stop anyone falling in. Its power vibrates through the entire room. You can’t help but wonder what it would have been like with four of these wheels turning and all the machines in action.

At present the mill powers two machines; a modernised version of the fulling machine. The second raises the cloth by stroking the fabric with a teasel brush. Teasels are part of a plant that looks like a burr-weed. These were put into the brush by a special teasel setter.

The photo here is of the last teasel setter, who has since passed away. I always find it sad that complete knowledge of a craft can die with someone. An age-old specialism that will no longer be passed on down and through generations.

The fluff from the teasels was cleared off the brush by children. A sure sign that they worried somewhat less about health, safety or child labor back in the day.

The shearing the cloth

One of the last treatments in creating such a fine cloth was the shaving off any excess fibres. A tough job and a dangerous skill. Should you get it wrong you’d not only ruin the cloth but also lose a body part.

Later, they evolved this action into a rotating machine you see in the photo here. Which coincidently lead to the invention of the lawnmower. Obviously, the cloth wasn’t the only thing that needed to be kept in good order.

Last sentiments on the woven fabric of our Textile History

It was a huge thrill to see the Mills in action and to learn so much about the whole weaving and cloth making process.

There is a part of me that is sad about losing the craftsmanship and knowledge of the industry as machines take over and production moved overseas.

There are only a few working mills left here in the United Kingdom. One of them is nearby, making high-quality cloth for professional billiard tables.

While nostalgic for the loss of an era. I question the work and physical effort, and side effects of working in the mill. I don’t believe I could with those machines going night and day.

I prefer weaving as a hobby, same as knitting, something I do in small quantities for the pleasure and joy of it. I am sure those who were weaving for 14 hours a day, or working in the factory would have had that luxury.

Still, the textile industry made a difference to the economy. Whether it was for ships sails, with which to go off and discover faraway shores. Blankets, uniforms to the very clothes that have kept us humans warm for centuries.

For me, it will always be a magical process. The weaving together of thread to create a piece of cloth. A cloth that can then be cut, sewn and fitted into endless possibilities.

It brings to mind the mythology of the Moirai (The 3 fates), who spun together each person’s destiny at the moment of birth.

With this magic, perhaps we can weave together a future, where we keep the craftsmanship. While finding new ways to make fabric, in a more sustainable and harmonious way. Thankfully, trends like the slow fashion movement are attempting just that.

The tours put on by organisations such as the Stroudwater Textile trust help to share the knowledge, passion, and history with us. So that these stories are remembered, acknowledged and passed on.

A big warm-hearted thank you to our guide, who worked in the industry all his life, and who was incredibly knowledgeable. Thank you to the Stroudwater Textile Trust for organising these tours at such affordable prices. For opening and sharing the stories and heritage of these Mills with us.

If you’d like to do a tour yourself, check out their website for times and availability.

Cloth in Action

Dunkirk Mill

The Shuttle

Dunkirk Mill

Wool

Teasel Setter

Fulling Hammer

Dobby Loom

Woven Cloth

Shearing the Cloth

The factory

Egypt Mill

The Flying Shuttle

Woven fabric Pillow

The old Machines

Raising the Cloth

Egypt Mill Terrace

Pre and post finishing

Our weaving

Shuttles

Teasel Brush

For those wishing to learn more about the stories of the Mill, I’ve just found a book and tv series about life of the children in the Cotton Mills further north in the UK. Fascinating read, and TV series which was based on a few of the stories that came out of the archives:

Pilgrims are poets who create by taking journeys. Niebuhr

There are famous pilgrimages recommended by religious groups or there is the pilgrimage that one does for oneself.

It doesn’t have to be on foot or by any particular mode of transport. It is nothing more than the journey of getting to the desired destination, in any way or form.

For me, that desired destination was the Stone Circles in Avebury, Wiltshire. I’ve travelled through the Netherlands, France and the rest of the UK, with buses, trains, and ferries to reach it.

I left Australia with the wild urge to sit in Stone Circles and visit the sacred sites of Europe. Walk the paths of my ancestors and distant kin, touching the earth of those that went before me.

So, why would anyone want to visit Avebury, a place that is often seen as the poor cousin of the ever famous Stonehedge? While in reality, it is not less, but so much more.

Why visit the Stone Circles in Avebury?

This sacred Neolithic site is the largest set of Stone Circles out of the thousands in the United Kingdom, and in the world.

It is also much older than other sites. The sites dating though is sketchy and I’ve heard everything from 2600BC to 4500BC. While this is still up for discussion as some researchers say that it is even older others say that it’s younger.

None of us was there, so who knows…

Despite the fact that it is a major World Heritage site, it is not shut off to the public. This means that you can walk around the stones, touch, sit next to them. You can visit the site at your own pace and in your own way.

Avebury is accessible by public transport, buses stop in the middle of the village. Visiting Avebury and walking among the stones is totally free. Considering that Stonehenge costs £19.50, and you can’t even go near the stones, this is a bonus.

Visiting Avebury is a full day out. As well as the stone circles on the site, there is also the avenue of stones that you can follow. These take you down to the West Kennet Long Barrow and Silbury Hill. There is also a museum and manor on the site that is run by the National Heritage Trust.

Avebury itself is also worth visiting for the energies alone. It’s situated in the centre of St. Michael’s Ley Line. These are energy lines that run over and through the earth, St Michael’s is one of the most well known as it is host to many sacred sites. This leads me on to a few things you may not know about the site:

What you may not know about Avebury:

As with many sacred sites, I recommend you get an alternative guide or do your own research before going. Mainstream guides or archaeologists rarely ask big questions. Nor are they up-to-date on the latest research.

Luckily, there are many who have done their own research. In one experiment, researchers planted electrodes at Avebury. In doing so they tested the earth’s telluric energy field at various times of the day. It showed that the ditch around the site harness’s the earth’s ground current and sends it back to the entrance of the site.

Other tests at stone circles show that energies spiral towards the centre of the site. The stones act as resonators and hold the energy during most of the night before releasing it at sunrise.

The late John Burke once tested the magnetism of the site. Tests showed that every large stone on the outer circle is magnetically facing north. And that its magnetic orientation leads on and connects it to the next stone in the circle.

As a stone’s magnetic energy occurs naturally while the stone is being made, aeons ago. It’s incredible that people so far back could not only be aware of this magnetic field but could measure it. Using those measurements to bring the stones together in such a precise alignment – this can’t be a fluke.

Avebury and Stonehenge are both situated on St. Michael’s ley lines. Both of them have avenues and both were used for ceremonies at certain times of the year. Many of Englands Crop Circles also appear between the two sacred sites.

Avebury from Yesterday to Today:

Avebury has had an interesting past. As many of the sacred sites we can only guess at its real use, and who built it and why.

There are all sorts of theories of how the stones were transported and then leveraged into place.

There are those believe that sound could have lifted and moved the stones. Others believe that it would a system of pulleys, some people believe it may have been giants. In all honesty, we may never know.

During medieval and religious times fanatics removed the stones. As the church believed that the stones had been a place of heathen worship and put there by the devil.

The site later went through a period of restoration. The stones put back together, and some in different spots. They added other stone markers for stones that were missing. While it’s not exactly how it was – it still as impressive today as it would have been in the past.

Has all this interference affected the power of this sacred site?

The Energies at Avebury of the Stone Circle

While there have been tests on the energy and the acoustics. How tangible is that for everyday people like you and me?

Now I can’t speak for you 🙂 For me, the energy at Avebury was both tangible and phenomenal. I could feel it the moment I arrived, it was so thick I could have sliced it with a knife.

I wandered about and touched all the stones. While I didn’t feel that one stone that was stronger than another one. I did notice that when I sat in the centre or was in-between the stones, I could feel a resonance of their energy working together.

All in all, it was an incredible experience – although it floored me for the rest of the day (May also be the 3 hours on a bus there and 2 hours back). It was well worth the four-month pilgrimage across land and sea. To finally come to the heart of hearts of European Sacred sites and Stone circles.

In all honesty, I can’t wait to go back.

What to know before you go:

The main reason I’d like to go back is to not only experience the energies all over again. But to also to have more time to explore the area. It’s a bigger site than I anticipated. So, I didn’t have enough time to go down the avenue and to visit Silbury Hill and the West Kennet Long Barrow. Which I would have like to have done.

Remember to bring a packed lunch. Or make sure you are on-time to eat at the village pub, which stops serving food during the day. There was a pop-up café near the National Trust Entrance, but that smelt a bit funny, so bring food or be on time.

As with most sacred sites, taking your time and be mindful. For me, this means no mindless chatter. Nor yelling at others to try to prove that you are more spiritual than them. Yes, this was what one lovely lady happened to be doing.

Take some quiet time, centre yourself, and be open to the energies that are there. Sit somewhere quiet and ponder, meditate or just be. Stew in that and see how it feels.

Each sacred site can set alight a spark in us if we allow it to – it’s a site that people have done ceremonies and that special stones have been put in place to bring together the strongest of energies. What we chose to do, feel or not feel is of course up to us.

We do ourselves and others visiting the site a favour, if we can visit them in a way that is respectful, full of reverence and good intentions.

For me, the pilgrimage goes, on. I heard the other day there are over 1000 stone circles in the United Kingdom, so I am sure Avebury isn’t the last on my list. To me, life itself is a pilgrimage. And sacred sites like Avebury make the journey that we are on, all the more magic.

Resources for visiting Avebury

Manon Tromp:  Offers tours of Avebury and Stonehenge, may also have night passes at certain times of the year if you would like to join a ceremony
Invisible Temple, Freddy de Silva – Freddy does tours and has published a few great books on sacred sites and temples.
Stone Circles website – lists all many of the main stone circles in the British Isles
Earth Ancients Interview with Hugh Newman that covers the Stone Circles and more research in greater detail.
Megalithomania – annual UK event that focuses on Megalithic structures, great speakers. Hugh Newman who runs the event and site has also authored great books on the subject.
Sacred sites website
National Trust Website
Steve Marshall has a great book called exploring Avebury, here is also one of his talks from the Megalithomania Event.
More information on West Kennet Long Barrow

p.s. Disclaimer: I don’t use wikipedia, I believe their word usages, biased point of view and censorship of certain content supports a wholly mainstream agenda – which I don’t agree with. Plenty of much better information out there!

Whether you are visiting England from abroad or on a weekend getaway. Ledbury in Herefordshire has a little something for everyone.

Ledbury, is more than an old market town with a colourful history, photogenic streets, and Tudor buildings. It has heart.

You can visit many of the historic buildings for free, and find them manned by volunteers who are both passionate and knowledgeable. They’ll be happy to guide you around and answer questions.

It also home to Church Lane, one of the most photogenic streets in the UK, that you can visit in real life rather than on Instagram.

If you also look very carefully you may even see the little fairy doors. There is a fairy door map and trail in the shops around town. Here is a page and map to help you out.

 

The village is also well-known for its Poetry festival that held each year in June and July. That brings in poets from all over the country and world.

Recommended spots to see and visit in Ledbury:

Market house

This old Market house takes the center stage on the town’s main street. It’s unique in that the stilts are exceptionally high. Completed in 1658 and built in Tudor style. The original use was for storing crops, after that, it was the town hall. Today it still plays the role of meeting house and hosts a small Saturday market.

Butchers house

Was built in 1581 and was originally located on the main street. Yet, they moved it to make the street wider in 1979.

It now houses a museum rather the Butchers shop. In the museum, you’ll find a Shoe bath, which I had never seen or heard of before. It was for inhabitants in Ledbury that didn’t have a bath at home. Men would carry this bath from house to house, so the inhabitants could bathe.

Address: Church Lane, Free Admission Open daily, including Sundays from 1st April to 31st October from 11am to 5pm. Outside of these dates, please make an appointment via Ledbury Civic Society.

Old Grammar School

Across from the Butchers house, you’ll find the Old Grammar school. Interesting for kids to have an insight into schools of the past.

I liked the wattle and daub, display. An insight of the inside of a Tudor style building wall.  

Church Lane, Free Admission

The Painted Room

 The wall paintings go back to the 1560’s, at the time they were a cheap alternative to tapestries.

The paintings were colourful and included religious inspirations (threats) of the day. The volunteers can tell you the whole story and explain the context.

 Church Lane, Free Admission

The Masters House

This refurbished historic house is now home to the local library. Be sure to check the website before you go, as there are free tours available every so often. They also host talks from historians, writers, and poets. Adam Horovitz was the poet in residence Ledbury in 2015, and he wrote a few great poems about the building. They can be found here.

 

St Katherine’s, Bye Street, Free Admission

Hellens Manor

While this isn’t in Ledbury, it is close enough to warrant a visit. Now, I am not the ‘let’s do a tour’, type of traveler. As the Manor is still in use today, the only way to visit the manor is with a tour.

Which is well worth it. There is so much history here that you would never get the full story on a simple plaque.

The guide lives on the property and has an in-depth knowledge of the history of the house, as well as being an incredible storyteller.

My two favorite stories were that of the ghosts. The first being Hetty, who ran away with the stable boy who she’d fallen in love with. When he died she returned to the house. Due to the family’s shame, they kept her room locked in her room for the next 30 years. Here she etched “It is a part of virtue to abstain from what we love if it should prove our bane”, into the window with her diamond ring.

The second death took place in ‘Bloody Mary’s’ room. Here a priest was running g to

escape from soldiers but instead, he ran straight into the second group and was brutally murdered. If you look carefully, you’ll find the marks of the attack on the wall and floor.

People who have stayed in the room have claimed to see his ghost, running back and forth in a panic.

The building itself is also fascinating, in how it carries the living history of its past and present owners over the different time periods. It was one of the best tours I’ve been on, and the highlight of my time in Ledbury.

Address: Much Marcle, Herdforshire
Website http://www.hellensmanor.com/
Admission costs: £9

Recommended places to Eat:

The Malthouse cafe and Gallery, Church Lane:  Home cooked quality food.
Ice Bytes, 38 the Homend:  Ice cream parlor

Recommended Places to Sleep:

The Feathers Hotel, 25 High Street
The Talbot Hotel, 14 New Street
The Bullshed,  While it’s not in Ledbury, it is nearby. Its boutique style and comfort is worth experiencing if you are escaping the city for a few days and looking to treat yourself.

Church Lane

Bloody Mary’s Room, Hellens Manor

Bloody Marys room

Bloody Marys Room

Hellens Manor

Hellens Manor

Ledbury

Ledbury Clock Tower

The Butchers House, Ledbury

Ledbury Countryside

Hetty’s Room