Tour of Ebley Mill: a Historic walk through England’s Industrial Wool Trade

Ebley Mill TourCathedral of Cloth, Ebley Mill Walking Tour

Do you ever have those moments, when you see an antiquated building, and have a curiosity to peek inside?

I do. I love old buildings. I love the architecture that has weathered time, and societal fluxes. As much I as I love the outside, I am always curious about what they look like inside too.  So, I jumped at the chance to do a free tour of the Ebley Mill in Stroud.

Richly woven tales by our guide brought the old mill to life. In our imagination, we strode through its various incarnations. Imagined ourselves surrounded by the clamorous sounds of the mill in action. The same sounds that would have echoed through the valley, followed by the wafting scent of wet wool.

We got to hear the stories of its heyday and slow demise.

The origins of Ebley Mill:

The exact dates aren’t too sure.  However, there Ebley Water millare mentions of two mills being near this site as early as the 1300’s.

One mill was for milling corn, and the other for fulling the wool. Which was a  process of beating the wool down so that the fibres would further entwine. Resulting in a sturdier and weatherproof fibre.

The Mills brought prosperity to the owners and being a clothier at the time was good business.  While the business boomed and ebbed the company grew.  When the original owners sold it off, it was perfect timing for the following owner.

As the French civil war broke out, the army’s need for uniforms made from quality English wool was in demand.

How the war lead to a boom in the Wool trade

Half the wealth of England rides on the back of the sheep

An Old English saying, that serves to remind us of the prestigious history of wool. Romans also wrote home about the high quality of the wool when they arrived at the British Isles.

Walking tour Ebley MillThe wool was as much for survival in a cold and rainy climate, as it was for fashion. There is nothing as sustainable, warm & weatherproof.

Which is why the fabric is popular for military uniforms, leading to a boon in orders. The profits of which financed the first building of the Mill that we see here today.

While a later war paid for the extension of a second building, which was originally 7 stories high. An epic explosion in the boiler room blew 5 of those floors. It was rebuilt and then damaged by fire damaged before it was rebuilt once more.

Peace and the changes in the Textile industry

As peace reigned, without uniforms to make, orders declined. The Mill had an equalEbley Mill History measure of tough times in it’s past.

By the 1960’s it was struggling, and the introduction of synthetic fibres didn’t help. The mill innovated with the times, creating new products by blending fibres with the wool. Yet, in the end, it couldn’t compete with other manufacturing costs and processes.

Sadly, by the late 1980s, it went bust and Ebley Mill’s grandiose buildings left to ruin.

A New life for the Mill and Local council

Ebley Mill walking tour

In the 1990s the building’s were bought and refurbished. It now houses the Stroud local council and its local departments.

Restored, it stands to watch over this Cotswold valley as majestically as it’s always done. A nod to its heyday, Ebley Mill was a state of the art building, the first Mill in the area of that style and size. Although, many other mills soon followed suit.

A walking tour of the Mill through time:

The tour put on by the Stroudwater Textile Trust, gives us the opportunity to see the behind the scenes. We got a wander through the building and see the touches of the mills past. A past etched into the beams and walls.

It’s as though the Mill reaches out and tells us its story, of all the architects and owners past and present.

While the mill no longer processes wool. The richness of the stories, history and its beautiful buildings remain.

A reminder of the past that lives on and is spun into the days and lives of the council and local residents today.

A Thank you for the walk down memory lane:

I’d like to finish with a heartfelt thank you to our guide, and her memorable stories. To the Stroudwater Textile Trust for organizing and promoting the tours. To Stroud City Council for preserving the old mill, and allowing us to wander about and learn it’s rich history.

The exhibition ‘Cathedral of Cloth, that was also on site, there is also a book available on the subject.

There are likely to be other tours in the future. If you are visiting or living in Stroud, keep an eye on the website of the Stroudwater Textile Trust for dates. It’s well worth a visit.

Ebley Mill free tour

Resources:
Stroudwater Textile Trust
Stoud city Council
British History




House Sitting vs Work Exchange, which is right for you?

Would you travel for Free?

You’ve heard the expression there is ‘no such thing as a Free Lunch’.  Do you believe that to be true? or do believe it must come at a cost?

What if I told you, you could travel for free? Well not “travel” per se, but you could at a minimum have free accommodation.

Which may even include a free lunch, breakfast, and dinner too…

Is it be good to be true?

Free food and accommodation are possible and there are two common options I am looking to compare.

1) Work exchange, whereby you exchange a few hours work (normally 5 hours x 5 days) per day for a place to sleep and three meals a day.

Or

2) House sitting, where you look after a home and its furry inhabitants in exchange for a place to sleep.

I’ll be sharing my personal experience of the pros and cons of each, as well as how to make the most of either experience.

House sitting

The pros and cons of Work Exchange

There are a few websites where you can find a suitable place to do a work exchange: wwoof (work on organic farms), Workaway and HelpX.

These are the most popular, and they all have a good selection of choices per country. I personally use workaway and have had great success with them. I’ve meet workers that use the other websites who have had equally good things to say.

My best advice when you are looking to exchange your time for work,  is to know yourself and what would be of interest to you.

For instance, I don’t do well with big families (nothing against big families, just not used to it), meat farms (I am a vegetarian) or heavy renovation work. So I don’t apply for this type of work.

The clearer you are upfront the more likely you’ll find what you are looking for.

Pros of doing a work exchange:

Free accommodation and 3 meals a day:
Do let them know if you have any dietary issues, so they know upfront. Often a hosts profile will say whether they can cater to a special diet if they don’t do check beforehand. Be sure to check what the sleeping arrangements are, is it an attic, sofa, tent, floor, shared or your own room. Again, personally not a fan of shared, but if you are travelling with friends it might be perfect for you.

Cultural immersion:
It’s a great opportunity to get a first-hand perspective on the local culture.

Language exchange, if staying with a local host.
There is plenty of opportunities to have a full language immersion. The hosts will say on their profile if they also speak other languages.
Yet, there is also often the option to stay with those that speak English, as I did while in France. As it is my dream to move to France and have a B&B there, I was looking for a foreign perspective. What a fabulous place to do research.

Learn new skills such as renovation, permaculture, homesteading.
You can learn almost anything. I’ve learned about the herb comfrey and permaculture gardening. How to look after chickens, shear sheep and work a Tibetan singing bowl.

Meet travellers and like-minded people.
Plenty of hosts have more than one worker, depending on the work and space they have available. Which suits those that are travelling alone or who love being social. Like any social dynamic, there can be pros and cons with this as well.

Cons of doing a work exchange

It can take up more time than expected:
Five hours a day doesn’t sound like much. Yet, I felt that I had had less time in a day. This may be due to working extra hours or interacting more with hosts and other workers. This isn’t bad, but worth keeping in mind.

Do also check the host’s profile, there are some that prefer that you do seven days or more hours in a day. When I see negative comments about this, it is because the worker didn’t realise until they arrived. If you don’t get at least one day off, you’ll have less opportunity to explore the local area.

You are in someone else’s space and pace
I’ve been lucky here and have stayed at incredible places. Yet it can be strange to adjust to someone else’s schedule, pace, and workday. So be open to adapting, and also knowing your boundaries. I do need some me time in a day, so tend to take long walks to balance that out.

I have heard some real horror stories of having to sleep in a shed or start work early or incredibly late. Know your boundaries, and don’t be afraid, to be honest in a positive way. I heard first hand from a girl who’d run away from a farm as she didn’t want to tell the host she couldn’t go off-grid. Be honest, not everyone can sleep in a tent, off-grid or in a shed.

Make sure you check the host’s profile and the reviews so you can prepare yourself for the stay. And if there are issues, be honest and move on. Not everyone or everything needs to be your cuppa tea.

If it’s in a rural area it can be lonely or remote.
I love remote for a while, and then I want a café and a decent coffee. Be sure to ask yourself; do you have your own transport? Is there public transport? can you get a lift once and awhile? Are you OK with your own company? Or do you need to go out for drinks as the sun goes down?

One of the largest gripes I hear from younger workers is how bored they are, and there is nothing for them to do. Know what interests you and whether it would work for you or not.

The work can be hard and different than expected.
I’ve been lucky with my choices thus far. Yet, when I did have to dig a ditch, it was hard and I did get blisters. Luckily I didn’t have to do this every day!
I have heard stories from workers that weren’t so lucky. Due to the manual labor, heat or other conditions outside of their control.

Like anywhere in the world, there may be businesses who misuse the opportunity for free labor. Although, I’ve found by doing your research before you go. Understanding the nature of the work, and being honest about what you are comfortable doing. You can better meet your hosts and your own expectations.

The Pros and Cons of House Sitting

You can sign up to be a house sitter on a number of sites, and for a nominal yearly fee apply house owners can contact you, or you can contact them.

As I am in the process of moving back to the United Kingdom I am using House sitters UK. However, trusted house sitters or mind a home, are also reputable.  I suggest you first browse the houses available in the country you plan to visit and then join the website with the best houses in that region.

Make sure you have a stellar profile, it’s here that homeowners can gauge if they’d trust you with their biggest asset (their house) and their most beloved furry family members.  A few photos and a detailed description helps them to decide. Once you’ve done a few jobs and have a review it’ll cement the deal.

If you are keen for a good review treat the house well, be respectful of their neighbors, the animals and leave it in pristine condition.

I tend to leave a thank you in way of flowers, fresh bread a small card as a token of appreciation.  I am honored and grateful that people have trusted me with their pets, and let me stay in their homes for a few weeks or more.

If a hotel is $100 a night x 30 nights, that’s a savings of $3’000 – which is significant.

At this very moment, I am writing this from a farm in the middle of England. I am looking after a pig, sheep, geese, chickens and a few cats.  The countryside is stunning, the villages quaint and I am endlessly entertained by the squirrels, muntjac, pheasants that are running amok in the yard – as well as some rather mischievous rams who are visiting with the sheep.

But as ever there are a few pros and cons:

House Sitting

Pros of House Sitting

Free accommodation:
While you do need to cover your own meals, it is minimal. A place to sleep is the biggest expense while travelling, so by having a free place to sleep saves a lot of costs. I’ve also done house-sitting on a farm where eggs and homegrown vegetables were a bonus.

Your time is your own.
Unlike a work exchange, you have all day to yourself. Hours for long walks in the countryside or to play tourist and explore the local area. If you are house sitting on a farm or there are dogs, the animal care may take up a bit more time, but it’s minimal. The downside to so much time is that you may get bored if you are unable to entertain yourself.

house sitting vs work exchange

Cons of House Sitting

Responsibility for the house and furry family.
On my first house sitting assignment in the UK, I broke something, I almost died…. Then I replaced it. Luckily it wasn’t a family heirloom. I was especially careful after that. If something were to happen to a pet or anything valuable you are, to an extent responsible. Which is worth keeping in mind, and for me, it means being a lot more careful than I would be in my own house.

It’s a commitment
Once you’ve said yes, you are committed, while I’ve heard of people canceling last minute, as a previous homeowner there is nothing worse than have to resolve or find someone to look after your pet at the last minute. So if I’ve said 6 weeks, that’s it, it’s 6 weeks.

You are in someone else’s space/ environment.
Everyone is different in how they live, hence staying in someone else’s house needs a certain amount of respect and adaptability. Not a big negative, but that could depend on the where you are staying… again I’ve heard some very interesting stories of fleas invested, filthy hovels, and am very grateful it’s not been my experience.

Use your intuition, and if your not sure ask for photos or references from people who have sat there before you – it’s ok for you as a sitter to also ask questions and to be comfortable and confident you can do the job and stay there for the time required.

If it’s in a rural area it can feel lonely and remote.
Like the work exchange, a remote location to some can sound idyllic. Yet the reality might not meet those expectations. If you are not sure, do a week first and then see if this suits you. If you don’t have a car, ask beforehand if there is public transport nearby. I don’t have a car and have still house sit in rural places so long as there is public transport somewhere nearby.

remote house sitting

Be clear on what you are looking for.

So yes, you can stay for free, and even get a free lunch, breakfast, and dinner.

More than this, you can make your travel dollars stretch so much further. Which means you, can travel for longer and have a much more immersive experience.

House sitting vs work exchangeI left Australia with a minimal amount of savings. Yet, at the time of writing this post, I’ve been on the road now for three months. And my biggest cost is catching a train in the UK from one place to another.

Anything is possible, and you don’t need a huge budget to travel and see new places.

As to whether you prefer the work exchange or house sitting, it depends what you are looking to experience.

As I work online, have many personal projects, and enjoy my peace and quiet. I prefer house-sitting.

Yet, I would still do a suitable work exchange tomorrow if the opportunity arose. And the experiences I’ve had to date: Herb farm in Australia, a small village in France, homestead in Brittany and a spiritual retreat near Glastonbury. Were all incredible!

It has helped that I know what I like and don’t like.

In closing:

Be clear on your limits, and boundaries. Be sure to stand up for yourself when and where needed – if you aren’t comfortable working on the roof, say so. Not happy being off-grid, be honest – it’s the only and best policy.

At the end of the day, it’s a big gorgeous incredible world out there and lots of amazing experiences with your name on it.

You don’t need to wait until you saved thousands of dollars, or won the lottery to make travel plans and live the dream.

You can start and go and travel at any moment you choose…

So, choose now…

Main photo, thanks to:  Hollie Harmsworth on Unsplash

Useful Websites mentioned:
Workaway:  https://www.workaway.info/
Wwoof: http://wwoof.net/
Wwoof International: https://wwoofinternational.org/
Helpx: https://www.helpx.net/

House sitters UK: https://www.housesittersuk.co.uk
Mind a Home: https://mindahome.co.uk/ or https://mindahome.com.au
Trusted Housesitters: https://www.trustedhousesitters.com




Educational Travel: Learn and see the World

Bored and looking for a new way to Travel?

Do you ever get the feeling you’ve traveled so much, that you are starting to get a little blasé? Do your eyes glaze over when someone mentions going to yet another church or museum?

Would you prefer a deeper insight into a country? What makes them different or the same?

Wouldn’t you love to take an authentic local experience and memory or skill to take home with you?

Is this at all possible without learning the language?

I am here to tell you it is, it’s affordable, insightful and a whole lot of fun. It’s Educational Travel.

Where common interests coincide:

At some point, we’ve been there. Traveling through cities and countries with a checklist of places to see, and things to do.

After a lifetime of travel, what I now want is an experience; an experience of the country, it’s people and it’s culture.  I want an experience that I am not going to get on a tour, through a pamphlet, or an endless array of churches and museums.

Oh, and of course I want this experience to be memorable. So, that I don’t confuse it with all the other trips I’ve been on.

When I decided to travel to Thailand, I wanted to travel differently.  I wanted to learn and understand the culture.

Ask yourself before you next trip; what are your interests?  History, cooking, painting, weaving, knitting, photography, art, stained glass, cycling?? Or is it something else.

Study Thai Yoga Massage

Studying Thai Yoga Massage in Thailand

Thailand is more than incredible food, the whole culture is fascinating. From its religion, its arts through to its concepts on health and well-being.  With the opportunity to stop there on the way to Australia, I decided to study Thai Yoga Massage in Chiang Mai:

I choose to do the four-week course at ITM (International Thai Massage) School. A lovely well-organized school. They had a good mix of teachers and were thorough in their approach, tests, training, and practice.

I have to say it wasn’t a walk in the park, there was a lot to take in, especially as it was only four weeks.  There were a few hours of study in the morning then practice for the rest of the day.

It is hard to research the right school before going to Thailand. If I had to do it again and I had the option, I would go there to see each school and decide from there. It is hard to choose without seeing it.

If you are looking to practice whatever you learn (ie. Thai Yoga Massage) abroad in your own country. I recommend that you check that the school meets your countries professional standards.

You can check either find this on the school’s website as here at ITM’s. Or double check it with the regulatory body in your home country.

One of the benefits of studying at ITM is that has international standards. The largest benefit was the cost. I could study all five levels, eat, stay in a lovely bed & breakfast for the same cost as one level in Australia.

While in Chiang Mai I also met students from the Sunshine Massage school. which they spoke highly of, and it another option for you to consider.

Master Sinchai

I found Master Sinchai in one of my last weeks in Chiang Mai. I actually went to him for a massage but ended up studying with him every night for a week.

He is an incredible teacher despite his blindness. I learned many other simple but effective massage techniques from him. He and his lovely wife earned a very special place in my heart.  www.sinchaimassage.com/

Thai Cooking with a side of Buddhism

While eating dinner at A Taste of Heaven, I noticed they offered cooking classes and signed up. A Taste from Heaven is one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Chiang Mai and was keen to learn how to cook what I was eating.

It was a treat to find on the day that I was the only person on the course, and my teacher Bob (fictional name to hide his true identity), was an ex-monk.

This meant that I got to ask juicy questions on monastic life, all while learning to perfect a green curry. Sorry to say that the secret ingredient in the curry was sugar.

It was strange to consider what it would be like to be a monk and then enter the workforce. What would it say on your resume? What skills would you have to help you get by in everyday life? Cooking it seems is one of them.

Oh, and Bob’s secret to youthful skin, considering he looked 20 but was in reality much older than me. He told me how his face relaxed after he started practicing the long form of meditation, which is more than 4-6 hours per session.  I’ve added this to my to-do list, for my next time.

I loved every minute of it, I couldn’t recall the last time I was this happy! Thai food is my favorite, although I never actually cook it due to its complexity. So, to have the opportunity to make it myself, and then eat it all was incredible… at times life can be so sweet.

 

I got to pick my 6 dishes from the extensive menu. I chose all my favorites; Green Curry, Pad Thai, Sticky rice with Mango, Kao Soy, Spring rolls and Papaya Salad.

In all honesty, my own Kao Soy was the best I tasted during my entire 6 weeks in Thailand – as you get to cook it the way you prefer it.

It was so much food, I felt that I would explode and die from gluttony, but I would die happy. I gave a family begging outside what was left. Not sure what they made from Thai food cooked by a foreigner. I certainly hoped they enjoyed it, as much as I enjoyed making it.

Educational Travel

Ock Pop Tok. Discovering Laos Through Textiles

While in Northern Thailand I hopped over the border and spent a few days in Laos.  The moment I saw that I could do a day’s workshop at Ock Pop Tok, I signed up.

The workshop included silk dyeing using natural items such as bark, nuts, and leaves. We learned about the process of the making and spinning the silk. To finish off the day we also had to the opportunity to weave our own small placemat.

Needless to say, I loved it! Now you might think that the dyeing is the easy part, but looks can be deceiving. The nuts I wanted to use were high up in the tree, so I also got to experience the joy of trying to get them down. This was no easy feat!

Although in retrospect the dyeing was the easier part of the process, the weaving is where it got tricky. While I choose what looked like the simplest version of the pattern, it still took hours to make. That included a few mistakes along the way. This was not without serious elbow grease.

At this point, I also need to confess that one of the girls jumped in and helped me finish my mat. Luckily, otherwise, I may have been there until long into the night.

Since doing the workshop I see the silk garments in the shop in a whole new light. I will never think of them of expensive nor barter over the price. The talent, the creativity, and work that goes into each piece is extraordinary.

The women here start learning these skills at a very young age and are likely to do this work all their lives. The work is generational and is passed down from mother to daughter. This close family structure makes for a great atmosphere within the workshop.

Everyone works side by side, laughing and talking as women do.

Ock Pop Tok can seem a little pricey considering the prices in Asia. I would ask you to keep in mind that it practices fair trade, ethical and sustainability. In other words, it is not a sweatshop and the women earn their worth. They support economic opportunities for rural artisans though village weavers projects. And work to preserve the weaving education, history, and culture.

This is the type of responsible tourism that we need to be supporting, as it doesn’t exploit local labor. It actually supports them, their families and their villages.

At the end of the day, I was very proud of my hand dyed skeins of silk and the mat I got to take home. I recommended Ock Pop Tok if you ever find yourself in Laos and looking to do a little educational travel. It’s a great place to learn a local skill and have a taste of cultural immersion and support local women. www.ockpoptok.com

Curious About life as a Monk, Join a Monk Chat

While Monk Chat isn’t a course per se it falls under educational travel. Why, because it offers you the opportunity to sit and chat with monks. The deal is that they get to improve their English, and you get to learn about life as a monk.

I have to say that I learned more in sitting with 2 monks for over an hour than I ever learned in any zen book I’d read.

Most men in Thailand will have spent some time as a monk, it brings good fortune to the family. It also eases the costs if a boy can study at the monastery.

It is also the hope that it may put wayward boys back on the right track. This explains the monks I saw with street tattoos smoking.

The two monks I chatted too were studying at university and were hoping to study abroad. They explained why they couldn’t or shouldn’t speak to women and talked to me about their dreams. The lad from Sri Lanka told me of the issues there.

What I got most of my few hours in their company was how alike we all are. Full of hope, dreams, and aspirations all while surviving the day to day in a tough world.

The image that we get is one of solace and enlightenment. Yet they also need to get up each day and brush their teeth and do dishes.

You can find monk chat at a few places in Chiang Mai. I went to the one at Wat Chedi Luang temple. Which is on during 9 AM- 6 PM most days. There is a seating area where monks will sit if they are interested in a chat, you can go up and join them.

You may want to check with where you are staying for the most up-to-date location and times.

Phra Farang: An English Monk in Thailand is a book that I was reading during my travels in Thailand.  Curious on what it would be like to be a foreign Buddhist monk? This sensitive yet hilarious read is just that.

Planning your Next Trip

Try your hand at learning something new.  It gave me such perspective on the amount of work that goes into their craftsmanship. If you choose the right place you are not only gaining a local immersion but also supporting local artisans.

You’ll often get to chat with a local and learn more about the elements of their culture that you won’t find elsewhere.

Now I don’t often cook Thai at home, and I’d rather turn a blind eye to the sugar content I was unaware of.  My trip was one of the most memorable travel experiences that I’ve ever had.

I now go out of my way to see what I can study and learn locally.

Is there something you’ve been itching to learn while abroad?  Go and do it now, there is nothing quite as satisfying as knowing you made it or can do it yourself. Even if you end up buying the product afterward 😉

The Yoga image is thanks to Ruslan Zh




Ideas for Sleeping cheap in Sydney, Australia.

Would you like to go to Australia but wondering if you can afford it?

As much as you’d like to go, no one wants to rob a bank to get there.  Yes, travelling to Australia is expensive, yet I’m here to tell you that it doesn’t need to be. There is somewhere to stay for any budget.

Here are a few ideas for Sleeping Cheap in Sydney, affordable accommodation in one of Australia’s loveliest  and most expensive cities.

Finding the right place to sleep at the right price:

There are a lot of different options, be sure to see what suits you with wherever you are at:

Backpackers are still a great spot when travelling solo:

Backpackers are great if you want to hang out and meet fellow travellers… yet there is also the odd occasion they are also the most affordable option.  Hang onto your seat belt though, as even the price of the backpackers in Sydney can make a credit card wince.  It can be anywhere from $20-$40 for a shared room at around $90 for a private one. Visit hostel world’s website which has great selection of all affordable accommodation on offer.

Find a Couch to kip on:

Couch surfing: If you are social and up for meeting a few like-minded locals for then this is the option for you. While there are fewer people offering a spot in popular cities like Sydney – however it’s always worth trying as you may get lucky and find yourself a comfy sofa to sleep on for free.  It’s advisable to set up a decent profile, and send a personalised request rather than a generic one.  If you do join the community my advice is also to host others and you’ll and meet people willing to return the favour. The only cost here is social credit and time, and good vibes.

Sleeping Kangaroo
Kanga found a comfy spot to sleep for free!

There is such a thing as a free lunch:

Work exchange: Either via wwoof (work on organic farm), Workaway (who I use) or helpx: while there is a nominal membership fee, it’s worth it.  You simply exchange your time for place to sleep and 3 meals a day.  The hours and type of work can vary; it is normally 5 hours a day, 5 days a week and the work can be anything from gardening, to babysitting, painting or cleaning. There are less options to do a work exchange in the city they do exist, do keep in mind this is also a great way to experience rural Australia, and work on one of the many farms and get a full outback experience.  I would recommend this option if you are travelling for a longer time and would like to keep the costs down.

Looking after someone else’s house

House-sitting:  Is another great option if are flexible on time and place.  Especially popular around Christmas holidays when everyone is going away, and while you might need to care for some animals in comparison to paying $100 a night for a hotel it’s a pretty good deal.

Budget stay Sydney

Do note that for both work exchange or house sitting you will have commitments on your time, however if you’d like to travel for longer on the cheap they are both great options.

A local homely experience that costs less than a Hotel.

AirBnB*: This is my favourite option. There is a good selection of places, you’ll meet locals, it cheaper than a hotel and you can choose a place whose taste, style and budget suits you.  I tend to make sure the host is like me, so I’ll feel more at home and likely to get a better nights sleep than if it’s a party house or a big family.

It’s a personal thing but some people are more comfortable around other people. As an introvert, I really like and need my quiet time, yet also travel for long periods of time so am always looking to save money on accommodation – as it is usually the biggest cost in places like Australia.

Average nights stay is $100 a day for something decent, so if you are travelling alone for a month or more – it’s a friggen a lot of dosh.  I for one would much rather spend that money elsewhere or travel for longer.

So to mix it up and spread out my budget, I’ll normally do a few weeks of a work exchange or house sitting and then use Airbnb when visiting a town or city, this means I can travel for longer and enjoy the sightseeing without any time restraints.

Hotels are still an Option in Sydney too:

Urban Newtown Hotel SydneyHotels: For the most part, hotels are an expensive luxury in Sydney; however there are times you might want to treat yourself for a night or two.  If this is the case I’d recommend the ‘Urban Newtown’, which I sadly discovered on my very last night in Australia.  It’s a funky little neighbourhood, where you’ll find some of the best creative handmade stores, health food shops and Restaurants, such as the Golden Lotus.

Cars that are made for Driving and Sleeping

The perfect double whammy that serves more than one purpose:

Australia Travel tip hire a van:  If you are travelling around Australia, you like most are going to be doing more than 5 days in Sydney. If this is the case and you’d like the freedom to roam and a place to stay I recommend that you rent a van you can sleep in.  You now have both transport and accommodation at half the price of a hotel room. A few companies you can find a wide range of cars and vans from are Wicked Campers, Jucy or Hippiecamper.

They come kitted out so you have a mini kitchen, a place to eat, sit and live the surfers dream life. You can park and sleep in caravan parks for a small fee, this gives you access to electricity and water. There are beaches and parks where it is legal and others where it isn’t best to check while travelling, you can find some further advice here on gallivanting oz or about Sydney in particular on Travel wheels.

For those that prefer real Camping in a National Park

Camping: Australia is still one of the countries where you can park your tent in the oddest places. To search for a camping spot, go to Environment NSW site or check out where to stay in the National Parks.

For more information on free or affordable camping you find a place to camp on findacamp.com.au or more information on the free camping website.

If you aren’t travelling with a tent or equipment, but would like to spend a few nights camping in the Blue Mountains, you can always rent the gear you need via: Sydney Camping hire.

Enough thinking about sleeping cheap, its time to go:

Koala Sleeping Cheap in SydneyNow you can be a koala and try to find a spot in a tree – a creative but uncomfortable option.

I hope these ideas show that you can find a place to that suits your budget and help you to both enjoy your time in Sydney while saving you some money to extend your stay or travel even further down the road to your next destination.

Don’t ever put off travelling – make the most of what you do have, the people you meet and enjoy!

Featured image: Photo by Keith Zhu on Unsplash Keith Zhu

All other photos by me….

 




A Seekers Guide to Glastonbury

Welcome to A Seekers Guide to Glastonbury and it’s sacred sites, for those that are seeking the magic, with both feet on the ground. Here is my advice on the best way to visit a sacred site to make the most of the magic you’ll encounter.

A few tips to keep in mind when visiting a sacred site:
  1. Everything is frequency. Sacred sites also hold a specific frequency stronger than most. And we all hold our own frequency.  Simply said some will resonate with you and some will not. Don’t take it personally.
  2. Do to give yourself the time and space to sit and see if you connect to the place.

In the wise words of Manon Tromp:

“Let go of expectations, go with the flow and take your time to let Avalon do what it needs to do”.

I also agree with Freddy de Silva’s views on why we visit sacred sites (paraphrased):  Every sacred site we visit awakens a spark in us, and takes us forward on our journey of self-evolution.  As each of us is on our own unique life pilgrimage, we will each experience it in our own way.

Which is why I put together my own Seekers Guide to Glastonbury;

A Pilgrimage to Glastonbury Tor

Glastonbury Tor

Glastonbury Tor is a magical spot. To connect and feel the energy of the land, I choose to walk up to the top of the Tor barefoot. Being so steep, every step was a reminder of how unfit I was feeling – I ended up feeling more out of breath than enlightened.

To keep myself going I imagined all the pilgrims that had walked the path before me. All the ceremonies and processions that the hill must have seen over the ages.

I hoped that by the time I got to the top that the veils would lift and Avalon would appear before me.  Needless to say, that didn’t happen.

Instead I went and found a quiet spot to sit on the hill.  A quiet place to sit and feel all that I couldn’t see. To connect to the energy of the site.

It was pretty magic.

If you find yourself at a sacred site do find a quiet place away from everyone else. A place to connect, to go within and meditate on what you feel and what emerges within you. Churches are often built on Sacred Sites, which were often built on the earth’s energy or Ley Lines.

Sacred sites have also had people making pilgrimages to them for thousands of years. Using them for their intentions, prayers and ceremonies. Put all this together and you end up with a magical energy for us all to tap into. Sit in the glow of those energies and let them share some of that subtle to strong magic with you. It is free to visit the Tor,  you can find information on the National Trust’s Website here.

Getting your toes wet at Chalice Well

Chalice well sits at the bottom of the Tor, across the road from the White Springs. It is a small park that costs £4.50 to enter.  It’s a peaceful garden, well tended and with many areas to sit and reflect and meditate.

Chalice Well Glastonbury

The ice cold red spring water at Chalice Well is the stuff of legends. One story is that the water gets its red colour from Joseph of Arimathea who added a few drops of Jesus’s blood to it. Another is that it is the spring of eternal youth and has healing properties.

The fact is the iron oxide gives the water the reddish colour. The well has been in use for thousands of years and is a constant 11 degrees all year around.  There is a small pool you can walk through, and it’s pretty cold!

You can drink the water from the spot where you’ll find the lions head. Legends say it gives eternal life, I did have a drink so let’s see if that is true. Only time will tell.
It’s a lovely garden, and well worth the entry fee and a visit.

Chalice wellsprings is run by the trust, website here. Address: 85-89 Chilkwell Street.

Dive into the Sacred White Springs

The White Springs sit as the foot on the Tor, managed by volunteers and open in the afternoons.   It is free to enter.

You can immerse yourself in these waters.  The spring and its pools are lit by candlelight.  While I stood in the darkness and I wasn’t sure if I wanted to risk slipping across the cold stones into a pool of water.
So I drank some instead and wet my feet with it outside and hoped that would suffice.

The White Springs website can be found here. Address: Well House Lane.

Time Travel to Glastonbury Abbey

Glastonbury Abbey

At a cost of £7.50, I had to consider whether it would be worth it to see an old ruin. The curiosity of seeing King Arthur’s tomb and the original church of Joesph de Armithea drew me in.

I am so very glad it did.  The museum itself wasn’t that interesting. And I have my doubts that King Arthur ever existed let alone lay there. Rumour has it this was most likely the churches medieval money-making  marketing ploy.

So while I didn’t see a tomb fit for marketing, or bones.  I did have the pleasure of visiting one of the oldest medieval kitchens in Europe. And a chance encounter with Alice from the 1500s.

Alice was busy working and complaining about how a woman’s work is never done. Before beginning her story of the kitchens and abbey’s history. We sat down and had a nice long chat about ages past.

Glastonbury abbey

I heard that my fellow countryman from the Low Lands (Netherlands) visited the abbey in the 1500s.  Brought over for their skills in silk weaving with the intention to teach those skills to locals. It was believed they spent time living in the kitchen of the Abbey. They never did have the opportunity to pass on the skills. They fled when Catholic King Henry came into power. As did most Protestants to avoid prosecution.

I did the day tour with Alice later in the day, and also learnt that the Abbey was at once the richest in the country. Pilgrims and visitors coming from far and wide to visit the holy site, seeking to clear their sins.

Luckily the wealthy people had the most sins. Which they could absolve for the right amount of money. Which is why the wealthy landlords left all their holding to the abbey in the hope of eternal redemption.

Now in a cruel twist of fate, it is the same wealth that destroyed them. The greedy king, who had spent all his money on war decided to put the abbot on trial. The abbot was found guilty, hung and quartered at the top of the Tor. The Abbey ransacked and it’s wealth sold and left to ruin.

You can enjoy the interesting stories and rich history by taking one of the guided walking tours that is included in the entrance fee.  There is a tour every hour until 4 PM.

The Glastonbury Abbey website is here. Address: Magdalene Street.

St. Margaret’s Chapel and Almshouses

St Margarets Chapel

This is a quiet secluded garden off the street. At the entrance, You’ll find a finger labyrinth, which is a meditation in itself and fun. You can pray or meditate in the small old chapel or garden.  The little courtyard almshouses were once hospital rooms built in the 11th century.

One of them is open and set up with furniture from the era. You can see how small yet gracious it was. Those that had to stay would have been well looked after.

While the walls of the courtyard in ruin from the onslaught of time. There are lovely details to the garden and can see that the place is up kept with love.  Address: 46 Magdalene street.

Wearyall Hill and the Holy Thorn

Holy Thorn Glastonbury

The Holy Torn, is where the original staff of Joseph of Armithea took root and grew, the tree is still there. It pains me to write that vandals killed and chopped branches from the tree. So it isn’t half of what it once was.

The tree, or the remaining stump is still there and still holds an incredible energy. I recommend putting your hands on it and feeling it’s warmth.

It costs nothing to visit, and has great views over to the Tor and the rest of Glastonbury.

More Magical spots to visit

Glastonbury is full of unusual shops, people and places that you won’t find on your average High Street. From the magic shop like the Cat & Cauldron, where you can buy a real wand, staff or a host of other magic book and paraphernalia.

Lovers of the Esoteric and metaphysical books can visit Avalon Library.  In the same arcade 2-4 High street, is Star Child, an incredible essential oil and herb shop.  And upstairs you’ll also find the Goddess Temple. Which hosts speakers and events most nights of the week.

Anyone for cuppa tea & a scone?

The Abbey Tea Rooms has stunning views of the ruins and some of the best Tea + Scones with clotted cream and jam and other English goodies which will give you the energy to climb the Tor or walk the Abbey gardens.  Address: 15 Magdalene St.

For those that might be looking for a stronger sacred drink, the George’s hotel and Pilgrims Inn is a lovely old fashioned English Pub in a well preserved medieval building.

You can even book a night and stay over the inn,  if you dare, its known to be haunted and you can read about a few spectral accounts and ghost stories of the Inn.

Where to Stay in Glastonbury

I was lucky enough to spend 3 weeks doing a work exchange through Workaway at Earth Spirit Centre. Incredibly lucky to met some truly magical people.  The centre also runs incredibly workshops throughout the year, so be sure to check their calendar to see what’s on.

AirBnb is also highly recommended, particularly Earth Mama’s House that is run by Manon Trump. Manon also runs tours to sacred sites including Stonehedge and Avesbury.

The Magic never ends

Glastonbury can be many things, quirky, magical, spiritual and at times over the top. Is it a reflection of our inner selves, is it whatever we want it to be (yes, be prepared for fairies and men with arrows and crossbows walking along the high street).

It can have moments of feeling like it is spirituality gone mainstream. Yet, it is still enchanting.  The people I met there is that they are all doing whatever they want, being whoever they want and living life as they want – blissfully content.

In this crazy world – maybe this is the sanity of it all.  There isn’t any seeking, but an authentic way of being.  And that, in itself is kinda Magical.

For Further reading:
Freddy de Silva’s Website.  Freddy de Silva’s book: The Divine Blueprint.
Manon Tromp’s Website, you can also find her on the Mystical Tours website.
Anyone interested in visiting Avesbury Stones can read more here.

 

 




Armchair Travellers guide to Argentina

Have you ever dreamt of visiting Argentina? Perhaps interested in an insider’s perspective to this fascinating country? Have you ever pondered about why Evita and Che are either fanatically loved or hated?

Or perhaps you are look for inspiration for an upcoming trip to Argentina? Any which way, this Armchair Traveller’s Guide to Argentina is the ideally place to start exploring the country from the comfort of home.

Books and movies can paint a history like no other. They give you an understanding of a countries like Argentina’s colourful past, its challenges and dictatorships, its culture and why it is the way it is today.

The best books about, or written by Argentine’s:

Jorge Borge Luis Argentine Writer

You might not have heard about many Argentine writers, the country and it’s dark past have produced some of the best in the world. One of the most renowned and one worth reading is Jorge Luis Borges.  He writes like none other.

From The Aleph and Other Stories (Penguin Classics) to his collected library of short stories and poetry.  His work is simply mesmerising,  and he is one of the most under appreciated yet spectacular writers and thinkers of his time.

His thoughts, mind and work have a multitude of layers that are both enticing and profound. Every time you read one of his stories you’ll see new dimensions, ideas and provocative metaphysical concepts. His poetry on suburban streets of Buenos Aires where he lived, adds a richness to the city that assure you’ll never see them in the same light again.

If you’ve seen the magic weaved by the tango or the eloquence in a game of polo; it is this same grace, flow and passion that Jorge Borges brings to his writing. A fascinating writer that will share Argentina and all its charm with you like no other.

Without the streets or dusks of Buenos Aires, a tango cannot be written. - Jorge Luis Borges Click To Tweet

The Tango Singer, books about ArgentinaThe Tango Singer
Tomas Eloy Martinez
If you are looking for a book that captures and brings to life the rawness of energy that is Buenos Aires, this is it. You can almost feel the energy emanating off the pages and through the dance and music of the tango. The heaviness that borders on a dramatic, always serious yet spellbinding dance between two dancers. This book, will leave you a little breathless for the city, the tango, for the music, and for life. At the end you won’t believe it was all fiction, it feels so real, as though you had lived it. It’s not. It is just a exceptional well told story, yet it is so captivating you can’t help but wish it to real, and that the book would last forever. It’s the perfect read whether you love the tango, exceptional stories or Argentina. Buy the book or find out more about it on Amazon: The Tango Singer

Santa Evita
Tomas Eloy Martinez
This is fiction rather than being a biographical account about the life of Evita Peron, and written by an Argentine living abroad. This may grant him a little more creative license than if he were living in Argentina. It doesn’t stop this book from being both a compelling read. There are a lot of books written about Evita, and like Che, you either like her or you don’t. The reality is that there is not much information available as Evita Perez. Evita, herself either omitted it or changed it, to suit the picture she wanted to present to the world.  So most books on the subject are heavily biased opinions of the writers perspective. This book and period in history shaped much of modern Argentina – as did the story of Evita, which is why it’s highly recommended.  It’s a hard book to find, I suggest looking it up on Abe books: Santa Evita

Che Guevara: A Revolutionary Life
John Lee Anderson
Che a revolutionary life, ArgentinaChe is either loved or loathed, and you’ll get a very different point of view on why depending on who you ask. It’s best to read up and learn as much as you can before defending or jumping into arguments on this touchy subject.  This biography is one of the best and unbiased on the market. It is also the largest, and most in-depth, so best read from the comfort of home rather than carrying it around in your backpack.

Armchair Travellers Guide to ArgentinaThere are points of this time period that were new to me, and rarely mentioned in our history books. Despite some of the atrocities committed in his name, Che fought for his beliefs, took action where others dare not, he gave his life fully to the end for a higher ideal. He saw and understood first hand what the American placed dictators were doing to Latin America, and took steps to create change where he was able.

A poetic hero, fighting for justice in a rather unjust and corrupt world.  For anyone who wants to get to know the man behind the story. You can find out more: Che: A revolutionary life

For those interested in more information on Latin American History, and how that history formed revolutionaries like Che Guevara.  The best book is: Open Veins of Latin America. It is a real eye-opener as to the use and abuse of the resources and people in Latin America, long after the Spanish conquest.

Further Famous books already well noted, and written about that are also worth a mention on this reading list are:

  • Motorcycle Diaries:  This covers the years of Che’s early adulthood and much of the text was based on his diaries that he wrote while travelling through South America on his Motorcycle.  This has since also been turned into a film, it is available on Prime or DVD.
  • In Patagonia: Bruce Chatwin’s is one of the best travel writers in the world. This book in without a doubt one of the most well quoted and famous book on and about his travels through Patagonia.

Experience Argentina through Film

Not all good writers in Argentina are novelists, some are brilliant film makers.  A few films like the Nine Queens have been copied, but the English version just isn’t the same.

The history and humour of the Argentines goes deep, and there are some idiosyncrasies that you get about the culture that you just wont’ get elsewhere.

San Telmo Markets Buenos Aires

Here are a few of my favourite films.

The Nine Queens:  The story on and about a bank robbery, it’s the most famous Argentine film. It’s on the humourous side, but also is just a cracking story about a some would be slick robbers and the many failures they make.

Igualita de Mi:  A favourite comedy, about someone who believes himself to be a bit of ladies man. You’ll meet a few of these characters if you do ever go to Argentina, the would be smooth talkers.  This movies put them in the funniest light and it a perfect romantic story with a lot of unexpected twists.

A boyfriend for my wife: Another great romantic comedy with a few of Argentina’s best actors. The Argentine’s have a way of bringing a story that you’ll never find in a Hollywood movie – which is what makes them so incredibly funny.

The Official Story, looks into once of the sadder aspects of the adoptions of children of ‘the disappeared one’s’ by wealthier or military families at the time of Argentina’s dictatorship in the 1970s.  This is the story of a mother of one such adoptee who tries to look into the Official story of what was going on at the time.  While it was a shocking period in Argentina’s history, these adoptions and the disappeared one’s was real.

The son of the Bride: A look at how crazy that family and life can get Argentine style.

Armchair Travellers guide to Argentina

Did you know Argentinian’s love to Read?

Argentine’s love to read and will be happy to discuss a wide range of books they’ve read. The upside of this also means that you’ll find bookshops all over the country. One of my favourite bookshops in Buenos Aires is the El Ateneo Grand Splendid Bookstore.  In it’s previous life it was an old theatre that has been transformed into one of the most stunning bookshops. Its the perfect way to spend an afternoon.

If you to make it to Argentina and are looking for English books, you’ll find them at Walrus Books, San Telmo in Buenos Aires.  They have an excellent selection of new and second-hand books.

Al Ateno Bookshop in Buenos Aires

In Summary:

So, whether you are planning or dreaming about Argentina, it is worth reading up on its literature. Take the opportunity to see the city of Buenos Aires through the eyes of Borges.

The tales in these books are so well weaved that you will see the city and country in ways you had not believed possible in such a short time. You will feel as though you’ve walked the streets. Had the tango dance a beat on your heart and a touch of revolutionary spirit will stir your soul.

Books and movies can unlock a richer experience of a country, a view behind the veil,this list on and about Argentina will the key.

Of course if you’d like to visit, be sure to check out why November is the best time to visit Argentina. If you are are considering moving there, here’s a The reality of Living and Moving to Argentina.

Or if you just want to escape some more from the comfort of home, I also have a Armchair Travellers Guide to England.

A few of the images are mine, and others a big thank you to:
Alfons Morales on Unsplash
7 SeTh on Unsplash 
Jeison Higuita on Unsplash




How to Bla Bla your away around the French Rail Strike

Without a doubt we are all for a bit ‘La Revolution’, and in most cases happy to support workers rights and protests on the whole.

Yet, do you hardly recall a real strike being held that interrupted your every day life?  Australia, Netherlands or the UK rarely strike – and the most we hear is rumours, threats, union meetings before it’s all neatly sorted out. And we are informed of the results.

The Revolution in France never really ended

Here, in France, where I am currently travelling they have an ongoing train strike – From April to June.  WHAT…. Yes, a 3 whole months, it’s spring and many tourists and locals are affected.

Read the details, or see the dates here in more detail here: Trainline EU

And they mean it.  I went and asked at the tourist information if there really was a strike –  seriously? there really isn’t any trains?? Are you sure?  The woman looked at me and my most absurd questions – of course there is a strike, which means limited to no trains.

Luckily while not everyday, booking anything can be tricky, I would advise where possible you travel on the days there is no strike.

Yet, there is another new transport distrupter that has stepped in and saved the day, a modern day knight / driver in shining chariot to whisk you off to where you’d like to go, meet  Bla Bla Car.

There is No Bla Bla about it….

So I have to declare I am a bit of a car sharing newbie – and was super nervous about getting into some strangers car, most likely this person won’t speak english – and my French is dismal at best.  How would this work?

Yet, thanks to my stubborn streak, I wasn’t going to let the Rail strike stand in the way of where I wanted to go, so I decided to risk it.  And try to Bla Bla my way across France to get to where I was going, when I said I was going to get there.

I found Bla Bla car to offer the best carpooling service, and there has also been a huge influx of French subscribers to the site, and a really community that is helping people everywhere to get them to where they are going – the easy way.

My First Bla Bla Experience

My first ride was a challenge to say the least.  I caught a taxi to the middle of nowhere and had to hope for the best. The taxi driver spoke to the driver, and the many messages the driver texted never arrived – as the website didn’t show my country code…  so, the driver rang – trying to speak french on the phone had me in tears, and I had no idea what was being said.

The taxi had left me in the wrong freeway exit, and the driver had to drive all the way around and hence was annoyed.  Communication melt-down at it’s best.  However, the driver found me, we resolved the issue.  He was super kind and I got across the country in less than 3 hours, while if I had taken the bus it would have taken me 13 hours!

The second driver had a full car, and was young yet a sensible, polite and charming.  So all in all with only an small wait between lifts, I got from Carcassonne in the South West of France up to La Creuse in the Middle of France cheaper and quicker than I would have ever gotten the train or bus for.

Lessons in using Bla Bla Car in a Foreign Country

So, while use of car pooling in another language isn’t without it’s challenges and limitations.  There were a few lessons learnt in the experience:

My advice:

  • Try different routes, and have a play around with the locations – without dates, so you can gauge what the more travelled routes are
    • Also go for rides that can pick you up from a central location (ie. Train station, this means there are also taxis or buses should anything go wrong)
  • Be sure to check the if they have room for luggage or not
  • Don’t be worry if the car has other passengers (I found this ideal as that meant I didn’t need to talk to the driver)
  • Read the reviews, Leave a review
  • Make sure you are on time
  • Always be polite and respectful

Bla Bla Car in Summary

Bla Bla Car Not only is the rail strike a spanner in the works, it is also difficult with the rail network or buses to get to get to the smaller cities or across from one region to another.  I am loving the option of using Bla Bla car to get me to where I want to go. While I personally like travelling by train, for me to get from here to my next destination Brittany I would need to change trains 6 times, which makes the journey a long an arduous one. While if driving it’s just 4 hours away.

Bla Bla Car is available in a variety of countries in Europe, and while you do pay for the ride, depending on what the driver is asking – it is still much cheaper than public transport. Payment it is via the website using paypay.

You can also set your preferences, music, smoking/ non smoking, and a little of a lot of bla bla (talking).

 Keep on Roaming 

I will continue to carpool across France, strike or no strike.  Admiring and yet avoiding the impact of the mini-revolution that is currently underway.

I’ll have my own revolution in difiance and not let it dampen my travels or stop me in getting to where I want to, when I want to get there.

Yes, the language barrier can be a challenge and also a great opportunity to learn some French and if you do speak the language the perfect chance to have a chat to a local. So don’t let a transport strike or your nerves get in the way.

Book a ride, get your Bla Bla on, and keep on Roaming.
What is life, if not a constant adventure.

Website: https://www.blablacar.com/

Book Train/ Bus: Oui SCNF

 




Best place in the Flinders Rangers for wine tasting and Devonshire tea

Blesings Garden Wines and Devonshire tea in the Flinders Ranges, South Australia

Once and while you come across an unexpected gem in the most unlikely of places. As we were driving through the Flinders Ranges to Port Germein, we drove past a road sign for a Cellar door and Devonshire tea. Having missed lunch the idea of a scone or two with a pot of tea was tempting, So, we followed the signs to a lovely remote winery in the typical Australian Countryside.  With stunning views of the surrounding area, we were greeted by Margo, David, and their lovely dog Papillion.

The scones were some of the best, home baked and served with the Flinders Rangesmost delicious fresh cream and a selection of locally handmade jams, and tea – seriously divine!

A perfect afternoon, David played some subtle classical piano in the background, while the native birds added some music of their own; the sheep grazed contently on the endless golden fields that where the odd Eucalyptus trees swayed in the wind and filled the air with their fresh scent.

Margo & David the owners joined us for a chat, making us feel right at home.  It was as though we were spending an afternoon with friends on the patio, enjoying their hospitality. David’s family has owned the property and gardens for generations, so he has a story or two to tell of it’s history.

We have take note of this gem, as it’s definitely a place to go back to spend a lazy afternoon, taste some wine with friends (this local boutique brand has won a selection of awards). You can easily pass the time enjoying a piece of the ‘Real Australia’ in it’s; scenery, charm, hospitality, wine, culture and history.

www.blesingsgardenwines.com.au

Bangor Southern Flinders Ranges
White Park Road, Bangor, South Australia




An insiders guide to Amsterdam

Ah Amsterdam, You’ve seen the movies. You’ve heard the stories. Whatever your reason is for going to the enchanting city – you definitely want to make the most out of your time there.

Amsterdam is more affordable than London, friendlier than Paris and more fun than Rome – and it’s no secret, everyone knows it.

This is why the city has approximately 18+ Million visitors a year. Which is 350K a week, in a central area that has only 830K residents.  As you can envision, it gets a little crazy-busy on the weekends.

So you have the choice 1) wrestle with the masses, waste your time in queues and see what everyone else does. Or 2) hang out and see Amsterdam like a local, avoiding the crowds in the process and having an unforgettable experience.

Even in a populated small city, you can become an expert at avoiding crowds. For instance, you’ll find all cyclists on one street and no one on the parallel street – so take a ride on the wild side, and make your own path through town.

TIP: Avoid getting run over by Cyclists

Ok, I admit. I’ve run over the occasional tourist.  I rang my bell, ting and they jumped – the wrong way right in front of me…. And in my defence, the old bike’s brakes are shot and don’t work.  I tried to stop really I did… splat…

So a free tip – watch out for cyclists, where a bike is painted on the path that means it’s a bike path, and when you hear ‘ting ting’ behind you – jump to your left, not to the right.  Walk and be aware, we are not trying to run you over… but may not be able to help it.

What to do, what to see, where to go:

While the magic of the city is endless, there are a few things that are always highly recommended that I never get sick of. Such as:

  1. Canal Cruise
    The best way to see Amsterdam. It’s a water city and the view you get from the canal is unique night or day. The companies are all the same so get on a boat anywhere anytime!
  2. Rent a bike
    Getting around on a bike is the second best way to get around Amsterdam and an incredibly local experience. You can rent a bike from almost anywhere.  Get a map and get off the same street as everyone else, you’ll find all the tourists on one road while the next one over goes in the same direction with no one on it, so always take the opportunity to take the road less travelled! Tip:  Remember where you park it – with more bikes in the city than people – it can be an adventure to find your bike again at the best of times.
  3. City Library
    Not for the books. What many people don’t know is that it has a café/ restaurant on the top floor where you can find an affordable lunch and enjoy the panoramic view of the city. It’s one of the only spots in the city where you can get an aerial view, a great photo opportunity as it’s a bit dull – there are rarely any tourists.
  4. Quieter Shopping streets: (read: Skip Kalverstraat)
    1. Amstelstraat: Not as touristy as the main shopping street but has some of the most unique design shops where you’ll find some real treasures.
    2. 9 Streets in the Jordan: Great tiny streets well lit up at night full of boutique stores – however these are publicized and will be full of tourists – yet due to the charm, still worth visiting.
    3. StaalStraat: home of Droog Design and Puccini and a few other cute unique shops too – around the corner from the Waterlooplein markets – which are great on a Saturday.  Rembrandt’s house is also there, if there is no queue be sure to check it out – the oldest bar in town is across from his house – it’s the one that may fall over at any minute.
  5. Museums
    1. Droog Design Museum
      While it’s not officially a museum they do have some of the best young, talented designers/artists that work for them so the items on show are inspiring.
    2. van Gogh Museum
      This museum got a huge makeover quite a few years back, and to everyone’s horror, it was closed. Yet, all was made good when they reopened, as not only is the museum itself stunning, but it also shows off van Gogh’s artwork like non-other. There will be a queue, however, this is one of the few instances it’s worth the wait (do get there as early as possible).
    3. FOAM Photography museum
      One of the most undervalued museums in my view, and yet perhaps it’s something I am grateful for – as it’s much less crowded. They always have local and international exhibits on, and the space itself is a curiosity.
  6. ARTIS:  Not the zoo but the hood, it’s one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Amsterdam and is so much quieter and more spacious than everywhere else. It’s’ as if someone has waved their magic wand and made all the tourists disappear. You can visit the butterfly room in the De Hortus Botanicus (Botanic Garden), and find a seat at a café on the canal at Bloem. Take a look around the stunning architecture of the Hermitage of have a coffee in the garden (the inside is a bit overly stuffy, so don’t waste your time unless that’s your jive and you like Faberge eggs and paintings of men with tutus around their neck…).
  7. Day out to the Historic village of Volendam.
    If you are spending more than a weekend there are also a few things to do outside of town. Volendam is a small bus ride away (public bus in 20 mins and a few euros) and captures some of the old-world Dutch charms.  You’ll catch the odd person still wearing the traditional dress, it has typical houses, including one that is a museum. And you can try the raw herring, or at least use one for a photo prop as everyone else does.
  8. Tulips fields forever
    now if you are lucky to be there around spring, and the weather is favourable – you’ll get the opportunity to visit one of my very favourite places: Keukenhof. An endless array of tulips – as well as many other flowers, remind the world that the Dutch are one of the largest flower exporters in the world, and certainly know how and where to grow them. If you can get out of town, at least visit the Flower market in town.

tulips kuekenhof

Foodies Delight: Best places to Eat in Amsterdam:

Chocolate: Puccini.  StaalStraat.  This without a doubt is the best handmade chocolate spot in the world, not only do they have an amazing array of flavours, from pepper, chilli, and cinnamon through to cognac – they make it out the back so the smell is as intoxicating as the taste.  There is such a wide selection it’s not rare to see some tourists in there for hours as they try to make a choice before buying most of the shops.

Rakang. Amsterdam, The Netherlands: This really is the best Thai restaurant in the world (Yes, even better than in Thailand). It’s an all-time favourite thanks to the incredible food, service, kitsch twist and ambience.  What’s really great is that you can have any dish on the menu made with tofu instead of meat.  Approx. €50p.p Elandsgracht 31. Tel: 020 620 9551 http://www.rakang.nl/

GartineBreakfast / Cake: Gartine. There are few spots that do a real breakfast. As the Dutch staple is bread and cheese.

Not so at Gartine, the food is beyond delicious, the chef has her own cookbook, and they grow a lot of their own produce on their plot outside of town.  Their cakes are so good, I admit it’s the only place I’ll also pre-order my dessert without questioning the calories.

The only downside is getting a table, they’re always booked out in advance and it’s a small place, yet if you’d like to experience the best breakfast spot and cakes in town it’s well worth the phone call, or the wait. Tel: 020 320, Taksteeg 7, Amsterdam.

Modern Dutch: Greetjes,  I’ve heard so many discourses on whether Real Dutch cuisine actually exists (beyond french fries).  I know for a fact it does.  I am Dutch and while it might not be the cuisine of the century, and you might not see a Dutch Restaurant in every (or any) city, there is a rather modest yet delicious one right in the centre of Amsterdam.  And trust me, this is the age-old grub my family relished ok, albeit a more modern somewhat funky version.

Fries:  Vlaamsefriethuis, voetboogstraat 33 – Best place ever, once again tucked away in a side street, and looks like and is a hole in the wall, however, you can follow your nose or the queue, as there are always people waiting in this spot.  be sure to try the ‘Oorlog’ which means war, with onions, mayo and sate sauce!

Olliebollen Van: this is a big van parked at the odd place around town – depending on the time of the year, that has what looks like big fat juicy doughnuts.  And they are only 100 times more delicious and authentic!

Insiders’ guide to Amsterdam

I have skipped the museums that I find depressing.  Reminders of wars, and relics, are full of old masters that go on forever and can get a little overwhelming.

As a local, I’ve included a short list of where I take visiting friends. Places that I never tire of. I’ve been on 100’s canal rides and still love it.  I never tire of seeing the Magere Brug (Skinny bridge) at night, and will always stop for a second when I cycle past it, to savour a moment of its magic.  To me, this is more breathtaking than any expensive museum.

I recommend if you are going for a few days be sure to grab yourself the iamsterdam card, which gets you into most museums and public transport free for a few days.  It gives you the opportunity to pop in and out of museums that you might not visit otherwise.

I hope you take yourself off the well-worn path, avoid the masses, and see the “Real Amsterdam”.  The joy of travel comes from unique experiences and insights into a local culture, a real taste of a mysterious foreign land, that you rarely find standing in a queue with many other moaning tourists.

So head out into this enchanting world and go and create some unique and memorable experiences of your own.  Uncover the lesser seen – yet even more enjoyable – Amsterdam for yourself.

Clogs in Amsterdam




Portland: Keeping it both Real, and Weird

Portland won me over from the start; This quirky, liberal, funky town has a pretty cool vibe. Within a few days, it jumped to the top of my list of favourite cities in the world.

My little bit weird and favourite thing to do:  is that people looked you right in the eye and gave a genuine smile. And this my friends is the place to do it, people weren’t glued to their mobiles, avoiding eye contact so much like the rest of the world – nope – straight in the eye look with a real smile…. and that my friend, is priceless!

The city, for those that are unaware, is also the inspiration and muse of the much-loved quirky little bit weird show ‘Portlandia’. If you’ve not seen it, be sure to check it out before you go.

Yes, the city is weird in the best of ways; its bike friendly, food cart crazy. Home of the alternative crowd – dare I say, critical thinkers…. that are all growing their own food and beards (other than the ladies).

For a crafty creative like me, it’s a huge Creative Mecca – one that must be visited and walked around at least once in this lifetime. It features some of the Best indie craft fairs, such as; crafty wonderland, renegade Craft Fair, Picnic Music+Arts Festival, Portland Fleaforall.  All worth visiting, be sure to check the dates before you go.

My Portland Recommendations:

To Sleep:

I used Airbnb, and stayed in Val’s Buddha room  – If I could’ve I would’ve moved in stayed forever! A lush, green and safe neighbourhood, a short walk to top local eateries, shops and gardens.

Where to Eat in Portland

Green streets of Portland

Brass Tacks, Most delicious Sandwiches I’ve ever eaten, ever! (This folks, is saying something – no not because I eat tones of sandwiches, but because I am an older than 29 ;-)). I had the vegan ‘Meatball Wizard, and Salamigeddon’.  Makes my mouth water just thinking about them!

Sweedeedee – this home cooked food rocked it!  I loved the homely unpretentious vibe as much as the outstanding quality of their food…

Salt & Straw; The Best Ice Cream; with flavours like Pear and Blue Cheese, Honey Lavender and Strawberry Honey Balsamic with Black pepper. As well as the standard classics. Don’t wait for summer; these are worth checking out all year round.

Que Sabosa, it the best Mexican food cart, I had the Burrito that was filled with fresh roasted vegetables, and mind blowing handmade sauces – that you don’t come across this side of the border – authenticity all the way.  @ N Williams.

Others recommend voodoo doughnuts. I didn’t get any, I walked passed saw the line of people waiting, wondering if it was a pop concert. But no, it gets this busy – so I put it top of my list for my next visit. I didn’t even wait in line at the Vatican, sorry dude’s can’t wait in line for doughnuts….

Where to shop in Portlandia

Crafty wonderland pop up shop: I recommend you visit Portland in June for the real event, which I missed. This pop-up soothed the pain. I was awestruck by the stunning and unique handcrafted items on display. There ain’t no suitcase big enough to fit all I wanted to buy (no credit card limit high enough either).

Collage craft supplies If you craft, pondering the idea of crafting this is the supply store to go to. I spent hours and hours in there – it has everything and more.

Contemporary museum of Craft: This has rotating exhibitions of fine quality handcrafted artisan good are. Let’s say its many leagues above what I fathom to make.

– Mississippi Ave: This is the street where you want to hang, shop and live nearby, it has the quaintest, to unique shops.  There are too many to list in one post.

What to visit/ do

City parkland, huge, walk-worthy and a must visit. I wish I’d put more time aside for this, as you could take a picnic and get lost in there for a very long time.

Powells Bookshop: filled to the brim with both the best collection of new and used books. I never buy books when travelling, but made the exception as there were a few books that I knew I’d not find anywhere else. this alone would be worth living close to Portland for. Also check out their schedule they often have speakers, authors or evenings of banter.

Made here PDX for best artisan handcrafted goods for both men & women.

To finish off, to prove that Portland is weird, here are a few unknown yet interesting facts;

  • It’s illegal to walk across the street with your shoes untied.
  • It’s illegal to whistle underwater.
  • It’s against Portland law to modify the weather without obtaining a license first.  Luckily this is not something I attempted to do while there 🙂 Does make me wonder if anyone has this license?…

Despite what others say about the weirdness, I felt more at home in Portland than I have anywhere in a long time.  I had some deep thought-provoking conversations with some incredible people, saw and bought some amazing handmade wares, was inspired by all the creative craftiness that I saw – and ate some of the best food of my life. This is my kind of city, for visiting or living and any time in Portland is time well spent.

This is my friends, is my kind of city, for visiting or living any time in Portland is time well spent.