In a quaint village, Dufftown proudly claims the title of the Whisky Capital of the World, the presence of numerous distilleries certainly sets it apart. With a concentration of six distilleries, including renowned names like Glenfiddich, Balvenie, and Mortlach it earns it kudos in the world of spirits. Although a few distilleries have closed and reopened, the legacy of the village remains strong.

For the Love of Whisky (Uisge beatha is the Scottish Gaelic term for ‘water of life)

Whisky is a major draw for visitors to the area, making it a great place to begin exploring. There are plenty of tour options in Dufftown and the surrounding areas. If you have a passion for Whisky and can be flexible with your visit dates, consider attending the Speyside Whisky Festival, typically held at the end of April or the beginning of May. Ensure to book your spot well ahead of time for this popular event.

Sons. Balvenie offers a more comprehensive tour however due to its popularity it’s booked well in advance. On the other hand, Glenfiddich provides great value for money, with a rich history and an in-depth tour that walks visitors through all areas, from the history, wash and tun rooms, still house through to the warehouse. The tour concludes with a tasting of four premium whiskies. While booking online is recommended, a few walk-in spots may be available, but they fill up quickly, so be sure to get there as early in the day as possible. Additionally, Glenfiddich has a charming shop and cafe where visitors can enjoy a drink or relax with a cup of tea and a scone. Book or reserve your tour here.

Speyside Tours provides walking tours of Dufftown, where you will explore the village, discover the history and stories of the local distilleries, and have the opportunity to sample a few drams along the way. www.speysidetours.co.uk

What to see and do around Dufftown

book here on the Visit Scotland website.

charming spot was set up and funded by a local, with local volunteers pitching in to maintain it annually. It’s a lovely spot to take the children for a stroll, and the Giants Chair walk is a great option for a leisurely walk in fair weather. Fairy Village on Facebook.

Mortlach Church and its Pictish Stones. The optimal time to view the stones is on Sundays when the church is open. Additionally, there is a standing stone in the churchyard. This stone is surrounded by various myths and legends regarding its origin and purpose, though the true history remains uncertain. While the standing stone has weathered over time and lost some of its original markings, the stones inside the church are well-preserved, displaying Pictish symbols of a snake, bull and eagle. The original church is among the oldest Christian sites in North East Scotland, having undergone several extensions and reconstructions. The around around the church was also the site of a significant battle between Malcolm II and the Danes.

Visit the website to learn more.

www.dufftowngolfclub.com

Hiking and Walking in and Around Speyside

Ben Rinnes and the Conval Hills Walks:
Ben Rinnes stands as the tallest hill in the vicinity and requires a short drive to its base for the ascent, this is located just 5 minutes outside Dufftown. On the other hand, the Convals can be accessed from Dufftown, with the path beginning at the rear of the Golf course. For more information on the various walks in the area, a local map is available for download.

Speyside Way is also a popular route in the vicinity, that goes from the Cairngorms down to the Coast, you can walk down the old railway line down to Craigellachie to join up with it. www.speysideway.org

Best Places to Eat

Seven Stills stands out as the top restaurant in the area. It is advisable to book in advance since they have limited operating hours, only during peak seasons. For accurate opening hours and more information, it is recommended to visit their website.

Gathering Cafe: This is over in Aberlour, the coffee and atmosphere are worth the small drive down the road if you want to be comfortable and cosy. www.thegathern.com

Best Places to Stay while in Dufftown

www.littlerobinbandb.com

www.thegablesbb.co.uk

Hillside Havens: Nestled on the village outskirts, these modern pods offer a private retreat, some even featuring jacuzzis and BBQ facilities. Enjoy stunning views, a countryside atmosphere, and easy access to the village on foot. www.hillsidehavens.com

Links to further local travel information:

Dufftown Information
Moray Speyside Website

Great Britain is one of the best places to visit from the comfort of your armchair. Especially in the colder months of the year. When the days are short, the fields are muddy, and the sky is more than 50 shades of grey.

To make up for these dreary months, there have always been copious amounts of tea, humour and creative storytelling to get people through.

A favourite list of books and movies are listed here, divided into the past and present. This way you’ll get a gist of the country as it was, and how it is today.  All while allowing you to enjoy the journey from here to there without leaving the comfort of home.

So, let’s get to it, and start with:

The Past: Endless Drama and Intrigue of Kings and Queens

England’s Kings and Queens are tricky to follow, there’s always a I, II, III all the way to VIII fighting someone with a similar name who is equally treacherous. Heads come off more regularly than a visit to London Tower.  Making books on the subject a jolly good read. Full of excessive drama, intrigue and best of all they are based on true events.

While your average textbook is as boring as a poke in the eye, writers like Philippa Gregory bring the stories to light in a most novel way (pun intended). Making them easy to read, leaving you on edge of your seat late into the night.  Now, there might be an embellishment here and there, yet, Ms Gregory knows her history. My favourites are:

The White Queen: Elizabeth Grey married Edward the IV, against the wishes of his family and the Kingmaker. Not only was she a mere daughter of a knight, but also a widow with two children. Highly unusual and sensational at the time.  Yet for many years their marriage was successful. Like most stories about love and power, there’s also plenty of drama. She has a lot of children, including the two Princes, that went missing in the tower. If you prefer to watch it rather than read it, it is also available on DVD.

The White Princess is a follow on about the eldest daughter of the White Queen who was forced to marry Henry VII. The family hoped that the union would bring peace, which it did for some time. She was also the mother of Henry VIII, so the story sets a good background on the Tudor era of England’s History.  You can also buy this book in the Cousin’s War Boxset for anyone interested in the whole period.  The movie is available on DVD.

The Red Queen. Is a part of ‘The Court Tudor series’, this series covers the queens and stories around the Tudors, such as Henry VIII and his many wives. The Red Queen is about his grandmother Margaret Beaufort, who doesn’t often get much attention.  Yet, she played quite a significant role and had a strong hand in the upbringing of her son and grandson.  She is often believed to be behind the disappearance and likely death of Two young Princes locked in the tower.

Philippa Gregory’s stories are told from a woman’s perspective, which wasn’t a popular angle put forward at the time.  Yes, while many women at that time were simply a pawn in a larger game. There were intelligent strategists and survivalists among them and Ms Beaufort was among them.

The Tudors is a suspenseful TV mini-series that is based on the life and a few of the marriages of Henry VIII, as well as the establishment of the Church of England.

A series called ‘The Spanish Princess’ covers the life of Katherine of Aragon, Henry’s first wife.  Katherine’s earlier life and first marriage aren’t often written about. She was left in the lurch when her first husband King Arthur died, and her mother the Queen of Spain refused to pay her dowry.  It was a tough beginning, without a happily ever after. Yet her courage, grace and character make it a great story.

Daughter of time –  Is set in the current day. The story is about a bedridden detective, who decides to uncover the unsolved fate of The two Princes in the tower. His investigation takes him deeper into the life of their uncle, Richard III.  You’ll find it presents an interesting hypothesis of what might have happened.

Time Travelling back to England’s Darker Past

There are really more books that cover the United Kingdom’s history than you can read in one lifetime.  Obviously, I can’t cover them all, but here are a few of the best:

Books like the ‘Time Travellers Guide to Medieval England’ is fabulously funny and take a deep dive into what the era would have been like if you were sent back in time.

The further you travel back in time, the less factual stories become. Earlier tales border on myths and legends of the British Isles. One of my favourites of that period is The Sevenwaters series by Julliet Marillier. Who does a brilliant job of bringing stories back to life and weaving in an old myth or two at the same time.

Another author that can be harder to find as they are often out of print is Morgan Llewelyn. She brings stories of Ancient Albion and Ireland to life. I especially enjoy The Bard and The Druid.

If this is an era that rocks your boat, there is also a new TV series that looks at this period called Britannia. While there aren’t any poetic bards, it does have the Celts, druids, magic and a few gnarly Romans. The period is the time of the first Roman invasion around 43AD.  You can find it on Sky TV or Amazon Prime.

On-Screen Period dramas that Whisk you back through Time

Downtown Abbey. Resistant at first, as the show seems a bit cliché, in all honestly it is well worth watching.  A great cast of actors and characters brings this whole period drama to life.  It has the right amount of humour, warmth and scheming to keep you captivated all the way through to the end.  Even the latest box office movie of the same name is a keeper.

Others that are also set in the period are Poldark, which takes you through the challenges of rural life in Cornwall. The series is based on the famous Poldark books by Winston Graham.

Outlander, will take you North and up into Scotland, and is a period drama with a modern twist. Outlander is set in Jacobian times, and despite the love, and drama of this wartime era. It is the landscape and its timeless features that really steals the scene.

For any of those out there who enjoy a bit of comical black wit, on which English humour is based. Then you’ll love the Black Adder TV series.  Written by Ben Elton and staring Rowan Atkinson and many of the cast of the equally funny and famous Monty Python movies, it is the most comical view of England’s history.

Modern Books and Movies of Great Britain

While the richness of England’s history is never-ending, modern-day Britain has talent.  As much as I like Arthur Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Holmes books, the latest TV series Sherlock makes London look so fabulous you’ll want to visit immediately.

Dare to be wild is another perfect example. Based on true events, it contains a bit of romance, yet it is mostly about bringing a bit of wild nature back into English gardens. It’s a story of a young gardener’s dream to exhibit in the Chelsea flower show.  It shows the English countryside and its magical landscapes in a most poetic light.

Lad, A Yorkshire Story – Such a touching story about life and death.  It’s often the ordinary everyday moments that become extraordinary.  Most of us are touched by death, family issues and struggles.  It’s in these mundane moments we have the opportunity to uncover who we truly are.

This story is just that, every day that reaches out and touches us profoundly. It’s a moving story, based on true events around the death of a boy’s father and the effect it has on the family.

Johnny English – is what’s needed after a serious movie. Good ‘ole Rowan Atkinson, of Mr Beam fame, is a spy, and offers the is the best way to laugh off any and all sadness. Of course, the movie captures everything that is so quintessentially British and worth laughing at.

Finding your feet – The ideal feel-good movie. It’s a view into everyday life in the UK, with a great acting cast of characters. It takes you through life turned upside down by events, the break up of a marriage, family and the magic that can come out of chaos.

It portrays hidden parts of London we don’t often see on the big screen. Yes, you can swim in the ponds at Hampstead Heath and live on a canal boat. There are unknown suburbs, all worth a gander should you ever visit the city.

Miss potter – We all know the darling drawings by Beatrix potter but few of us know the author.  This movie looks at how it all started out for Beatrix and how her little animals came to life.

It was quite rare at the time for women to have such freedom to create. While she did eventually marry it wasn’t until she was much older.  Overall its a great story of how nature can inspire us in the most charming of ways.

Anonymous – Who doesn’t love a conspiracy theory? This one takes us on a deep dive into who the real Shakespeare might have been. Putting forth the most popular option of Edward de Vere, the Earl of Oxford.

Super actors really bring this movie to life and give us plenty of food for thought.

Personally, I am a fan of thinking it might it have been either Mary Sidney or Amelia Bassano Lanier.  Both of whom are better contenders than the Bard of Stratford.

If you are a Shakespeare fan, Upstart Crow, is a comical series made in the same vein as Black Adder and is a very funny view into what the real Shakespeare may have been like.

Jam and Jerusalem – This isn’t a very well-known series, but it should be. It’s a riot a comical take on country life written by Jennifer Saunders.  Pure British humour at its best.

Timeless books about England.  Warning: May increase the desire to travel

So many incredible writers come from England and weave wordy magic around this fair Isle of Albion. The top of the list are:

The Shepherds life, A tale of the Lake District.

An old classic is pretty much as it sounds. A humble, honest and poignant view into the life simple life of a shepherd set in one of the most stunning parts of the country: The Lake District.

The Living Mountain, Nan Shepherd

A short but poetic book about the Cairngorm mountains in Scotland. It captures so beautifully the author’s love for and relationship with them. The Living Mountain is a magical book written about and for nature.

― Nan Shepherd, The Living Mountain

 A Croft in the Hills, Katharine Stewart

Another bookshelf classic, it covers the tale of Katharine and her partner buying a croft (small countryside house) in the Scottish Highlands. It covers the simple, day-by-day challenges of life without luxury. Yet it does so in the purest form.

It is both romantic and honest in its simplicity and yet shows us that living a modest rural life can have more bite than a Rhodesian ridge-back with rabies.

Obviously, this lifestyle isn’t for everyone, which is why reading about it and experiencing it from your armchair is all the more entertaining.

The Old Ways, Robert McFarlane

Robert McFarlane’s books are spellbinding, they’ll carry you through highways, byways and countryside paths, stories and memories.  So lividly engaging you may confuse their reading with your own future memories of adventures yet to come.

I started copying down phrases that resonated with me, only to realise I was copying the whole book, word for word. Eventually, I simply bought a copy for myself. I will inspire a long list of places to see and visit. It motivates us to a deeper exploration of the countryside. Leading to the article on why ‘The Best way to see Britain in on Foot’.

From here to there and everywhere, Get down, get cosy…

Kick back with your favourite beverage of cocoa or wine. Make popcorn, get comfortable and let yourself be transported both near and far by the greatest storytellers this country has ever known.

This fair land of Albion is worth visiting anytime from the comfort of your armchair, or via plane, train or boat.

If you’d like to be transported to other countries through books and movies, check out my ‘Armchair Travellers guide to Argentina’.

Thank you for the inspiring photographs from:
David Monaghan on Unsplash
Bjorn Snelders on Unsplash
Colin Watts on Unsplash
John Roberts on Unsplash
George Hiles on Unsplash

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There are many ways for us to travel in this modern day and age. Yet, a timelessness lives here in Britain, where the old ways and new ways collide.

Here in the United Kingdom modern modes of transport are a means of getting from A to B, these are not my preferred form of getting around.  Driving is hectic, busy and stressful. Trains are expensive, overloaded and rarely on time. While buses are affordable, they also crawl through the countryside at a snail’s pace and rarely connect through to, or stop at any worthy destination.

Biking is another option but needs to be undertaken at your own risk, health and accident insurance is advised. Yet, amongst all the pitfalls of modern travel, there seems to be an overwhelming trend during the weekend for walking/ hiking.

*Disclaimer: I see hiking and walking as the same thing given there are not excessively large mountains, so I’m going to use the word walking to cover them both.

People in England have The right to roam

England is ideal for walkers.  Endless green valleys, sloping hills, roving rivers and pockets of forests beckon anyone ready for some greenery and fresh air.  Walkers also benefit from the Rights of way act, that ‘The right to roam’.

This means that the general public may access land without the use of paths.

Note: Although private areas do exist, you can find them on maps via Natural England. Landlords of private property will in many cases put up a notice; Private land, or Do not trespass – so be sure to respect their wishes if you do come across these signs.

On top of this, there are plenty of right-of-way paths for walkers to use, which are mapped out and easily accessible.  If you are curious about what this means or have questioned the Ramblers walking organisation has a great FAQ (frequently asked questions) which covers walkers and landowner rights in detail.

On the rights of way paths, farmers and landowners are asked not to obstruct the path or block access to it. Nor should they let aggressive bulls into the field alone. One exception is made for non-dairy breeds, which can be in a field if accompanied by cows.  Apparently, the dairy bulls are more aggressive.  As many of us might not be able to decipher one breed from another if you see a bull and are worried simply play it safe and find another route.

In return, it is expected that walkers also respect the landowners, and their lands by following the countryside code of conduct.  It is generous of farmers to allow the public access to the land that is their means of living.

If you bring your dog, have them on a leash when on farmland with livestock.  If concerned there are also plenty of other farms, forests and fields without livestock that you can enjoy.

The Pilgrimage Revival

You may have also noticed a revival in ancient pilgrimages.  There have been some great articles published that feature the British Pilgrims’ trust.  An organisation that has done a stellar job in the last few years of not only promoting pilgrimages but also organising pilgrimages and bringing ancient pathways back to life for people to enjoy.

One such pathway is aptly named the Pilgrims’ way and will take you from Canterbury to London’s Southwark Cathedral.  Travelling in true Pilgrim fashion on foot and staying in wayside houses or churches along the route.

Anyone looking for an inspirational book to read along the way, I highly recommend either the Art of Pilgrimage by Phil Cousineau or The Old Ways by Robert MacFarlane.

“Pilgrims are poets who create by taking journeys. Niebuhr”

On top of the old Religious Pilgrim routes, there are even more ancient pilgrimages to sacred sites such as Stonehenge, Glastonbury or Standing stones of Avebury.

While not every walk is a pilgrimage, there are many other groups that you can join for a hike or a stroll:

Walking Associations and Groups

Whether you’re a traveller from distant shores, or a local who would like to get out and about more – there are endless walking groups and options here in the UK.

Meetup has a wide choice of walking groups for all ages and has walks you can join in all areas and at weekends.

There are also established national and local walking groups, such as the Ramblers.  It’s a great way to motivate oneself into doing longer countryside walks – while promoting a good cause.

The Ramblers is a non-profit and as well as receiving a quarterly magazine, maps and free access to lead walks, they actively campaign and support walkers’ interests in England.

Currently, they are in the process of lobbying with landowners and the government, to create the ‘England Coast Path’. Set to open in 2020, it will cover 4.500 km of Britain’s coastline, making it the longest coastal walk in the world.

On top of this, they are putting out a call to members of the public to go through old maps, to locate old pathways, so that they can be noted and reclaimed before the due date in 2026.

More than that though they offer a great range of routes throughout the country via their website or app. You can choose either independent or led walks, short or long, and easy to hard – there really is something to suit everyone.

There is nothing quite like joining a group of like-minded individuals for an afternoon of sturdy walking.  You can find them online at Ramblers.org.uk

Well-known routes through the English country

While most everyone has heard of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, and the Appalachian Trail.  Britain also has its fair share of stunning trails, which may not be as famous but thankfully quieter, and equally stunning that you can enjoy if you’d like a walking holiday.

Here are just a few worth mentioning:

Cotswolds Way:  This is one of the most picturesque walks. It spans the length of the Cotswolds from North the South. Covering over 100 miles, it snakes along the upper escarpment of the region and passes ancient long burrows and ruins left by prehistoric man.  Being in the Cotswold it also passes through quaint villages and runs either to or from Bath, which is one of the most beautiful cities in England.

Hadrian’s Wall:  This is the famous wall that the Romans put up in the hope of keeping the unconquered and unruly Scots out.  While I like to think of it as ‘The Wall’ from the Game of Thrones, the reality is that it’s not half as high or fearful.  Listed as a UNESCO world heritage site, it runs along the thinnest part of England. So, you can make it from the East to the West coast in under 8 days.  It’s a trail where you really do follow Romans’ footsteps, passing by historic Roman ruins set amongst the breathtaking countryside.

The Pilgrims Way:  This is an old Pilgrimage route, and you can either walk to or from London or Winchester to Canterbury, there are a few options available for the route.  Canterbury was an old stopping point for pilgrims on their way to Rome.  Back in the day, it was normal for most of people to try to do at least one pilgrimage in their lifetime.  In doing so, and by giving alms to the church they felt more likely that they could gain, if not buy a spot in heaven.

While it did fall out of favour for a few centuries thanks to Henry VIII, it is thankfully back in style and much of the old pathways have been given a new life for a new set of walkers and modern pilgrims.

Offa’s Dyke way: Follows most of the border between England and Wales and is named after the Anglo-Saxon king of Mercia. It snakes through the historic Welsh countryside all the way from Chepstow in the South to the Northern shores.

Heart of England Way: This as it sounds leads you through the heart of England and through the West Midlands countryside.  It’s about 100 miles long and goes from Milford down to Bourton-on-the-water, one of the Cotswolds’ quaintest if not most popular villages.

You can get booklets and trail passports as well as advice on the route, and places to stay along the way from the National Trail website.

Transformation of Unexpected Pathways

Recently alternative routes are being uncovered.  Such as old railway lines and towpaths are easy to walk along and have been revived and lovingly restored and transformed.

Towpaths, for anyone unaware, is the old route that was laid alongside the man-made waterway canals.  These were built back in the industrial age before motor cars so that donkeys could pull the narrow boats containing wares through to their final destination.

Canals were eventually replaced with the railway. However, thanks to locals, volunteers and organisations such as the canal and river trust have put in a serious amount of effort to do restoring many canals to their former glory.  As a result, the towpaths alongside them offer both picturesque and relatively easy walking paths.

The same is being done with older railway lines that have become overgrown through time.  There is a TV show on Channel 5 in England called: Walking lost railways, and a book Lost Railway walks, that highlights them.  As such there are also a few websites promoting lost railway routes and sharing them so that we can all enjoy them.

It’s great to see that even an old railway line can be recycled and put to new use.

Benefits of Walking

Yes, England really is the perfect country to explore on foot, but there are a lot of side benefits to doing so.  Of course, exercise and an improvement in overall health are a given.

But my favourite benefit is that I am travelling at a pace that is right for me, I can stop, sit or walk fast at whichever point I like.  If the view has become exceptionally stunning, you can stand or sit in awe for as long as you like.

It’s flexible so that you can choose a different pathway, or do a circular route a linear route or makes one of your own – there are no time schedules or anything to abide by other than common courtesy and respect for others on the path.

In the meantime, science has proven what many of us already knew spending time in nature, with trees and fresh air has a positive effect on the heart, organs and mental health. This is why the art of forest bathing is so popular in Japan and has been taking off everywhere.

Personally, I believe that spending time outside in nature, in a disconnected world is healing for the body and soul. It leads us to appreciate the world around us, and feel connected.

Appreciating the natural world

Anyone who has spent hours walking through forests, over hills and small creeks can’t help but to spend some of that time in awe of the landscape around them.  The birdsong that fills the air, squirrels foraging for nuts.

Red Squirrels are even being re-introduced in areas of Snowdonia in Wales and Caledonia in Scotland. If you have a keen eye you may even spot the elusive badger or friendly otter. Or a peaceful forest floor filled with bluebells or snowdrops.

The change of the season, the fresh air or crystal-clear springs and canal towpaths.  It’s as healing as it is magic and touches us as humans deep in the soul of our being.

Protecting that which we love

Once we start to walk more – we can’t help to connect, it brings us back to our natural state being and hence to the natural world around us.

I’ve not yet seen a walker with headphones, they’re too busy listening to the birds, a burbling brook or the rustle of leaves through the trees.  They’ll stop to enjoy the views, breathing in the fresh air and reaching a deeper state of calm.

In the pure enjoyment of time spent in nature, we become more naturally inclined to want to protect it, and care for it, as it should be respected and cared for.

You can see this reflected in the number of efforts local walking organisations have to protect these areas and pathways.  It’s also why I appreciate upcoming organisations such as Rewilding Europe, Rewilding Britain and the woodland trust.

These types of organisations are going above and beyond to restore ancient woodlands and areas that are safe havens for local wildlife, birds and insects that are so critical to these natural habitats.

It’s scary to think that some countries have no ancient woodland left, the ecological structure that they host so much more than just a selection of trees or a simple place for us to enjoy our daily stroll.

If you have the opportunity to look into them if you are in the UK for a while why not also support them with your time as a volunteer or purchase a membership?

Get your boots on and start walking

If nothing else, your feet are made for walking. Endless pathways that cross the United Kingdom are calling you to walk upon them.

So, let’s get our walking shoes on, and they say in one of my favourite Celtic Proverbs:

“Your feet will bring you to where your heart is”.

Resources

Government Right of way, Right to Roam
British Pilgrimage Association
National Trails
Railway Paths
National Trust: A beginners guide to forest bathing

Big thanks to a few of the photos by:
Photo by Jake Melara on Unsplash
Photo by Colin Watts on Unsplash
Photo by Sint Linuza on Unsplash
Photo by Richard Bell on Unsplash

Shrewsbury is a quaint medieval town, that made it onto my hit list of potential places to live here in the UK. This was largely due to the accolades it received from Londoners who’d made the move, housing prices and location. It didn’t seem like much of a hard sell.

Yet, it is always wise before seriously considering settling into a new country or city to visit and spend some time there, even if only for a few days. You need to see the place first hand, does it live up to your expectations, as you view it through the eyes of a potential future resident.

While there is much I enjoyed about my visit to Shrewsbury. The reality is that I couldn’t see myself living there long-term. This is of course a brisk assessment – I know many people who have made the move and love it.

The decision on whether a place suits you or not is personal. It depends on your style, requirements and history. This is why it’s important to know yourself, and what you are looking for.

Even though I won’t be spending the rest of my life there, I did really enjoy my time there. It’s a great city to escape to for a weekend, with its rich history, gorgeous Tudor buildings, tasty food and ample space for riverside wanderings.

It’s a perfect spot to practice the art of slow travel.

Here is a snapshot of spots that warrant a visit:

Best Places to Sleep in Shrewsbury

There are hotels in Shrewsbury. But if you are keen on a local experience a lot of pubs rent out rooms upstairs. This is ideal for an authentic old-English experience that leaves a lasting memory.

Thankfully, a few old alehouses have also evolved. Back in the day a typical pub had wall-to-wall carpet, partnered with the nose-curling stench of beer, to create a multi-sensory overload of the most nauseating kind.

Now, there is a subset of bars that have modernized themselves, sharing the older Tudor-style building, but in a cleaner, stylish setting.

Boutique Pubs at their Finest

I stayed at The Loopy Shrew: A fresh take, modern furniture and design in a country chic setting. Located in the centre of town, with everything within walking distance. The only downside is the photos on the website were taken with a fish-eye lens, giving the mistaken impression that the rooms are more spacious.

On the upside, the service and staff were friendly. And the room included a real English breakfast. A real cooked breakfast of Eggs Florentine (my fav), Full English Breakfast among others. Hands down, one of the best hotel breakfasts I’ve had in a while.

The Lion + Pheasant is also a boutique up-market pub that meets B&B, ideal for anyone with a taste for comfort and design.

Eating out in Shrewsbury

Travelling while attempting to go gluten-free has its challenges. I thought Japanese was a safe bet but was wrong – and in a smaller city exotic food can be a bit of a mistake. So, my first night’s dinner was a tad mediocre.

To counter that, there are I found a few better restaurants with a gluten-free menu. Jacques Bistro has typical French fare at decent prices, it’s open all day and offers great pre-theatre specials and a decent set menu.

Loch Fyne is a welcome treat. The food is local or sustainably sourced from the Scottish Highlands. So fresh it melts in your mouth and the service was second to none. It is popular with the locals and regulars and is located in the centre of town.

Lion + Pheasant is also a popular and recommendable choice. It is upmarket, with small portions – but well worth it for the quality and flavour. The atmosphere was great, and the food was phenomenal.

The city does have some stellar restaurants, but I did feel after a few nights to be running out of options. Especially considering my desire to go gluten-free.

If I were eating gluten I would have liked to try the Dough + Oil as it looked like it had handcrafted sourdough pizza.  In the end, when you’ve run out of places to eat, it might be time to move on.

Things to see and do in Shrewsbury

There is a good calendar of events happening in Shrewsbury. Everything from beer to folk festivals. I imagine the place turning into a mini-metropolis at those times. The city has an impressive new theatre complex. A small historic castle worth visiting. With plenty more to see and do on the tourist route, you can find more details here.

As I only had one free day and two working days to see the place, I opted for a walking tour and a scenic stroll along the river. It is along the river at Quarry park that you’ll also find an incredible small garden called ‘The Dingle’. Bursting at the seams with flowers, trees and benches it’s the ideal spot to spend some time.

Not sure if there had recently been a flower festival in the city, as everywhere you look there are flowers. Flowers in the windowsills, flowers along the walkways, flowers hanging on shop fronts. Stunning.

Wandering back through Shrewsbury’s past

Another point of interest outside top of the fact it has over 660 listed historic buildings. Is that Charles Darwin was born and grew up in Shrewsbury.

As a result, you’ll find everything from rocks to restaurants named after him. You can see his statue at the library or visit his place of birth.

The old town encircled by the Severn River lends itself to aimless wandering. The city shows a range of architectural styles from classic Tudor, Victorian, and Edwardian to modern eyesores of the industrial era.

Being on the border of Wales made the town a hub for the wool industry. You can see this early wealth reflected back in the quality of the early Tudor buildings.

It was also due to its location that it was at the forefront of regional disputes between Wales and England.

The Market Hall, a Hub of Creativity

When you get tired of strolling around town, the Market Hall is well worth a visit. It is one of my favourite places. You can sit down and grab a spot for lunch or do a spot of shopping. You will find fresh vegetables, vintage stalls, books, stalls selling wool or those that feature local artists. A vibrant creative hub of activity.

Getting out of town

If you have a car, you might even want to follow the trail of what they say is the real king Arthur. Which legend has, does exist and happens to be from the local area. Ludlow and Wreham are close by and also have a rich history and colourful past and are worthy of a visit.

Being as it is Shrewsbury is also still today the gateway into Wales, you can catch trains up to Holyhead, or down to Cardiff and the start of the well-known Snowdonia park is but a short drive away.

Whatever your interest in Shrewsbury and the surrounding area, it is a great place to wander and spend a long weekend or dawdle away a few weeks.

Once a bustling medieval trading centre

York certainly has its charming aspects and unbeknownst to me, is on the top of most peoples list of places to visit.  Which is the likely reason it is still to this day overrun by wild hordes

Once upon a time, it would have been a thriving trade centre, there are remnants of the age of Romans and Viking Britain throughout the city.

Now, if you are anything like me, you don’t travel to hang out with tourists, no matter what era they’re from.

So, while there are excessive amounts of visitors, and out-of-towners, there are also some quieter areas to be found, if you know where to look.

How to avoid the Pillaging Hordes

My top tip would be to visit York in the depth of winter, on a freezing Tuesday morning at the crack of dawn.

Failing that option, visiting during the week can be less painful and staying out of town is a cracking choice.

Quieter places can also be found around the outside of the city centre. Walking the city’s walls, and away from the smaller shopping streets or the city’s gardens.

The quietest places, I found were the bookshops, odd exhibition centres, smaller churches and back streets.

Setting the Medieval Scene

The city itself is magical, a defensive wall still surrounds the city. It was first built by the Romans and reinforced by the Vikings. Then the Normans built it into the wall that we see and can walk on today.

It gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. It also gives you a feel of what it might have been like back in the day.

The York Minister is a stunning example of Gothic architecture and the largest of its kind in Northern Europe. It looms over the city with timeless grandeur.

Old wooden Tudor buildings line the streets, and The shambles are so beyond quaint it’s almost postcard perfect.

In times of old this would have been the market and butchers area, and a thriving social hub.

As for the inhabitants of this bustling market town. There seemed to be groups of rowdy slightly tipsy drunken Northern blokes.

I had to chuckle as I wandered imagining myself back in the time of the Vikings.  Really these lads are just following in the footsteps of their ancestors, albeit in tighter pants, which may be why there is less plundering…

And the new weapon of choice is of course the cell phone. Aimed, deadly and ready to use at the drop of a hat.  It seems times haven’t changed too much.

What to see and Do in York

You might think that it’s unlikely that you’ll be robbed by a Viking in this day and age, but beware you will be parted with your cash at every opportunity.

Visiting some of the attractions can feel like they are inflicting daylight robbery. This list includes the ever-famous York Minister church at £11.50, while attractions and museums range between £4.00 – £12.00

It does all start to add up, if you plan to visit a lot of places you might be best buying a York day pass at the tourist information or online starting from £45.

You can also get the Jorvik passport for £20. This gets you into five attractions and a few of those like the Dig cater more to kids…

If the prices make you baulk, there are also free walking tours that are put on by volunteers, it’s a two-hour tour and covers most of the important aspects of the city.

Travelling back to the Age of Vikings

I skipped the museums, and attractions, but got the Jorvik Pastport and visited the Jorvik Viking Centre, which I enjoyed.  It is super ideal for kids and put together in an entertaining fashion. Despite the fact, rides or being shepherded isn’t my cuppa tea.

The upside that I did enjoy is the museum area, where I was fascinated by the items found at the site, such as the shoes, jewellery, combs, coins and craft materials.

This shows that the city was an active market settlement at the time, and its inhabitants did a lot more than raiding.

Here is a great interview with Peter Addyman a British Archaeologist on a History of Vikings which cover the dig and their finds in York in more detail.

On top of this, I went to the Henry VII and Richard III experiences.

It was a confusing time in English History, as I try to make sense of which Henry was which and who was trying to kill who…

A medieval soap opera as its finest.

The exceptional part of these exhibitions was the chats with the volunteers, if you do visit make sure you stop for a yarn, they are a wealth of information.

There was also the Magic exhibition at Barley Hall, which I liked due to my fascination with all things magic.  The building itself was great – although you won’t find me raving or writing home about it.

The Shambles Market in the centre of town is also worth a visit, here you will find a surprising amount of Harry Potter-like magic shops. I believe this is due to some of the scenes being filmed on, or the set based on these same characterful streets.

Which explains why it’s become one of England’s most instagramable streets… the crowds were enough to deter me, and why I got no photo of it at all.

Another good reason it’s good to get out of town. Instead, you can go and visit Castle Howard, one of the most stunning castles in England, or lose yourself in England’s only Fairy Sanctuary.

Where to stay and eat

Finding the right place to stay can make or break a trip, do you want to leave the front door and be in the middle of it all?

Or escape the city and get away from it all, which is what I did, and why I chose to head out to the farm, a hop, skip and short bus ride away.

The Mohair Farm in Pocklington

Staying here without a doubt was the highlight of my trip to York, and its excessively good reviews are well deserved.  From the initial communication prior to my trip all the way to dropping me off at the bus stop at the end – it was perfect.

The room I had was beyond lovely, comfortable and chic – overlooking the large tree filled with birdsong, and a flower-filled garden.

What makes a great stay in the details, from a wide choice of herbal teas, and biscuits. To a selection of Natural Bath Salts, that were put to go used after walking around York for more than 6 hours.

To top is all off there was also a choice of breakfasts, either the typical English breakfast made with country fresh ingredients or an omelette of your choosing. Totally delicious!

The hosts really go above and beyond, and it was a smart move to stay there – away from the crowds. I know where to go next time I need to escape the city and get some well-needed sleep, fresh air and R&R.

Despite being in the countryside, there are a few places to eat nearby. Gio’s Italian Diner is cost-effective and promises to ‘Make your tummy smile’.

On the same road is also an outstanding Restaurant ‘Thai Season’. I’ve not had a Kao Soy for a while, but it was first class – and highly recommended.

There are no restaurants or cafes I can recommend in the city itself. It was all too crowded for me, even the cafés had a queue and long waiting times.

I loathe queuing at the best of times, and spending time in line for a cuppa tea, isn’t me. I would not queue if they were flown in from China and served up in a gold cup by the queen of England herself…

In Summary…

My expectations for York were likely fairly high as it’s been on the top of my list of places to visit for a long time and hence sorry to say, it didn’t quite meet my expectations.

When travelling, it’s best to leave your expectations at home, I know – but we all fall into this trap once in a while.

If you love being on the main tourist trail, and you’d like to visit one of the most popular cities in England. Then this is the right place for you.

Just come with time, patience and a credit card.

If not, there are plenty of other equally beautiful medieval cities in England that are less busy and also worth visiting. Or simply opt for the easy route, head out to the countryside and visit Mohair Farm for a few days and enjoy time passing at a slower, more relaxing pace.

The Vikings were avid farmers. We can find as many traces of their lives in the steady work that goes on in the country, in the home-brewed craft ale and home-cooked food that is served up alongside typical countryside hospitality.

And that’s where you’ll find this time traveller…

Links to resources:

Mohair Farm Pocklington
York Minster Church
York City Pass
Jorvik Viking Centre
History of Vikings Podcast

Bohemian Treasure in Bexleyheath

Isn’t it super when you stumble upon a historically fascinating hot spot in the most unexpected of places?  You can turn up somewhere unplanned – like I am now, house sitting in Bexley – look up what there to do nearby.

And voila sometimes – not always but sometimes – you score a winner.

This is exactly what happened when I realized that William Morris’s Red house was around the corner from where I am currently staying.  Now I have to confess I wasn’t completely sure who Will Morris is/ was… until…

Until I saw the designs and wallpaper and recognized them immediately.

His designs are legendary and recognized by all, sold by Liberty and Sanderson’s.

Either which way the Red House was one that he bought in Bexleyheath in the 1800s and worked with the builders on the design to create a family home with the medieval style and theme that he was so fond of.

Since then the house has changed hands, some parts have been painted over, however much of his inbuilt furniture and a few paint and design features remain.

Medieval Village Mayhem

Like the man, Mr. Morris’s creative bohemian style would have raised an eyebrow or two in the late 1800’s – my tour guide filled us in on the late nights, loud parties and apple fights.

All of which caused a bit of a raucous back in the day, which ultimately led to the family moving back up to London.

It’s a little more tranquil in the house and gardens today. The National Trust now owns the house, which gives us all the opportunity to visit the house and gardens.

A Tour led by volunteers worth taking –

As with many National trust buildings, there is often a tour available that is part of the entrance fee. While I am not a tour type of person – I do love to hear the stories, especially that you would otherwise not find out about by wandering about by yourself.

Some of the furniture was made especially for the house, and hence certainly makes a statement. It’s a quirky place with lots of creative details that add to the character and charm.  All the while, William Morris’s own personality and beliefs are embodied in the walls and even in the ceiling.

His idea of painting by holes, that were made into patterns to prove that you don’t need to be an artist to paint and create a design worthy space.  Something that we can still see reflected in the simplicity yet almost Nordic designs in the house today. Perhaps IKEA took a page from his book.

The walls of the manor also proudly display his love of stories, myths and forgone days of chivalry, romance and friends.

The Man was and remains a Creative Legend

While I might not have known who he was when I started the day, I certainly knew him by the end of it.  His house, his heart and inspiring creative spirit lives on here in the UK as does his style.

Surely, you also recognize his furnishings, wallpaper and timeless designs.  The man himself is a National Treasure.

To uncover similar gems in the National trust house throughout the UK, you can find them on the National Trusts website.

Visit the website for the William Morris’s Red House, for opening hours and admission fees.

P.s. I also visited Halls House and Gardens in Bexley, the gardens are free and highly recommended, the house perhaps is worth a visit with kids.  For me on this occasion, I didn’t think it was worth the price.

Do we need Etiquette on the Tube?

* Disclaimer: Political incorrectness ahead – abort here if you are prone to snowflake tendencies…

There is email, driving, texting and swimming pool etiquette – but I’ve yet to see tube etiquette in action. 2 million people a day are squeezing into a spacious tin can. Surely we can agree the situation calls for a smidgen of manners.

Once upon a time in a more civilized society  (a society that drinks tea and queues for buses) there once existed unsung rules. But these rules for the underground were not handed down through the generations to those that ride the tube today.

Instead, these invisible rules lurk in the depths of the underground, keeping the remnants of the plague company.

New Era calls for new Rules and Tube Etiquette

Must we make some new rules? We’ll base them our collective misery and daily commuting annoyances thus far. Rules such as:

#1 No Eating or Drinking in the Carriage

Everyone eyes the person clinging to their freshly brewed coffee precariously. The other day I spotted a woman accidentally spill her takeaway coffee all over herself. Thankfully there was now less coffee in the world to land on me. While I’ve not had coffee spilt on me (YET), I have had yogurt flicked all over me.

Not impressed; I was so appalled I didn’t know how to react. What is the etiquette in this situation, I wondered? Should I call them out?

Comfort them by saying sorry? as though its OK to flick yogurt all over my suit jacket anytime.  Do you smile and pretend it never happened.

Or do what comes naturally? My reaction was honest. The horror in my face spoke so loudly, words could never have done the look justice.

Mentally I slapped them upside the head. I wondered why anyone would eat something so messy and impossible to open on an overcrowded underground carriage….

Sure, reasons may exist– but if you are going to spill shit, then please like the mysterious coffee woman, be kind enough to spill it all over yourself.

#2 Throwing up

The only thing worse than seeing someone eat on the tube is the regurgitation of the aforementioned food.

Are there times this might be OK. Perhaps in a moment of motion sickness? No, not really, there is nothing that makes it acceptable.

I can say in all honesty that nothing grosses me out more. If you see a superhero tearing out of the carriage at the speed of light –  that’ll be me.

If you are feeling ill, faint or not well – please get off the train. Ask for help… I am sure it’s going to happen sometimes, but it sure does happen more than it should.

#3 The Mobile Phone Stagger

Remember the old cowboy movies? A man would get down off his horse with a bottle of Whiskey in one hand and a gun in the other – staggering across the dusty road.

Nowadays rushing from the tube in the vain attempt to get to work in time, is that a drunken cowboy you see before you?

No, it’s some schmuck who hasn’t finished watching TV on their mobile or texting a friend. Checking an email, that will doubtlessly explode into a fiery hell if not read slowly at this exact moment in time.

This staggering numchuck will take up all the space. There is no way past them to the left, or right, over or under. They exist in a parallel universe where only their mobile exists.

#4 Pushing, Shoving and Being Nasty

Every day there are injustices taking place in the world when I see someone get the absolute hump on the tube, I almost laugh out loud.

First world problem – don’t take life so personally. The fact that you’ve taken out all your anger on another person in such a small space is just going to piss you off and everyone else in the vicinity too.

Sure we all feel like yelling, screaming and smacking someone in the head – luckily most of us control these urges. Do us all a favour and control it too.

# 5 Man spreading… taking up space

While there is even a ‘scientific explanation’, according to mainstream media, there is still no excuse for it.

If like me, you are a foreigner and are new to the term man spread, I want to let you know, it’s not something you smear on your toast. It is as it sounds, men taking up space.

You know, like animals do when in an aggressive stance. Animals do this to make themselves bigger, scarier, it helps them feel more confident. While it may work for animals, in the real world it comes across as arrogant and greedy.

We all know the seats are small, anyone who has sat between two 300 pounders can attest to that. So let’s just stick to the space we have, and not spread ourselves around more than we need to.

# 6 Respect the elderly (anyone older than you)

London Transport has taken a step to help those that are pregnant with a ‘Baby onboard’ badge. You can also get a “Please give me a seat’ badge if disable or have a mental health condition. Not sure if you can apply when the tube is driving you mad…

Yet, there is no ‘Get the f&%k up, I’m old’  badge, which is a good idea as people are not very forthcoming with their seats.

No one looks up from their phone or book long enough to gauge someone’s age. Let alone kindly give up their seat.

I remember a time when we were taught to respect anyone older than ourselves and to give up your seat. Those days are well past, it’s never too late to give up your seat, and show a bit of respect.

#7 Don’t throw yourself under the train

Listen, life’s a bitch – and it’s a bitch for us all. You were not singled out for some special shit pie. You throwing yourself under the train is not only something the driver needs to live with forever. It also holds up all other trains, transit and passengers. Late to work, or worse held up on the way home, stressed and annoyed, even more than we need to be.

TIP: If, my little pep talk hasn’t talked you off the platform. At least, Find a driver that has at least run over two other people. I heard, that if a driver has had three strikes he’s out. He can retire early and never have to work again. Very sad, but true.

Please don’t throw yourself under the train…

One rule that does exist that we can break:

“The vow to never ever make eye contact ever”.

Do people avoid eye contact so they don’t see that 110-year-old lady that needs a seat? By keeping all eyes on their phone – even if sitting in the priority seat – they can avoid getting up.

Looking someone in the eye reminds you that they are another human being. This is the last thing the people want as they push, shove and crush anyone in their path to a seat.

Once they have their seat they won’t give it up lightly – whatever the social norms.

Today, integrity ebbs away and people know the best course of action yet decline to act upon it.

Research has shown that if one person stands up to a thief, bully or injustice others follow. Yet, it also works the other way around.

Read the spoof that caused a stir on the tube when signs threatened penalty if anyone made eye contact on tube.

Becoming a Zen Commuter – Yoda of the Underground

Early in my commute, I spotted someone who remained standing and giving up the seat to others purposefully. In the midst of all the raucous and chaos, they stood out like a Zen master in a storm – a Yoda of the underground.

Totally suffered a fangirl crush – I was in awe.

I finally experienced the side effect of kindness. Scientific research has shown that when you are kind to others you not only get a shot of feel-good endorphins but so does everyone else around you.

Now, while you may still see me diving head first into a seat, if and when these rare beasts are available. Now and again I also strive for a bit of inner zen and stand up to give others the opportunity to sit.

In doing so, I may have even caught a few peoples eye, an odd smile and nod of the head. Kindness is eternal, and no matter where you are, or who you are – let it travel with you – it goes a long way.

Resources:

See the percentage of other people that share your commute:

Fun facts about the London Tube

Transport of London– sign up for travel updates and alerts

Tube Status – updates and delays in real time

Commuter Club (discounted rail and tube tickets)

Most lovely photos gratefully provided by:

Brunel Johnson on Unsplash

John T on Unsplash

Adrien Ledoux on Unsplash

Viktor Forgacs on Unsplash

Ohmky on Unsplash

Suhyeon Choi on Unsplash

Vidar Nordli-Mathisen on Unsplash

Robert Baker on Unsplash

Putting ‘Nature’ and ‘London’ in the same sentence may seem like an oxymoron. However, you may be surprised at how green and lush London can be once you know where to look.

As a visitor to the city, there are plenty of great museums and places to visit such as the British Museum, Tate Modern, Victoria and Albert Museum.  All super places to visit, however, too many hours indoors can leave you feeling like you’ve had the life sucked out of you.

Which is when you might want to escape to a park, such as Hyde Park, Regents or Green Park. Be warned that these may be full of all the same people you ran into in the Museum. The solution is to find a few less famous but more fabulous greens spots around the city.

These quiet lush places are the go-to when you start to feel a bit drained. A bit of fresh air and a place to recharge is the perfect natural remedy, and here’s a list of my favourites:

St Dunstan in the East Church

This church is tucked away in the back streets of the financial district, and can feel somewhat clandestine solely by the fact that many people that work nearby don’t even know of its existence.

It withstood and was patched up after the great fires of 1666, before being bombed during the blitz in 1941. Many of the structural walls of the old church remain standing although the roof is gone.  It’s a treat to watch nature reclaim the space.  There is a garden and benches to sit and while you enjoy a coffee or lunch.

It’s a stone’s throw from the Tower of London, so worth a visit before or after your tour.

Cost:     Free
Address: St. Dunstan Hill, London

Hampstead Heath

Hampstead Heath particularly beautiful park thanks to its lakes, easy accessibility and incredible views of the sprawling city that it overlooks. It’s the perfect place for a picnic – depending on the weather – or just a stroll to stretch your legs and get some fresh air and exercise.  Cost: Free

Inner City Squares

There are so many to list, it is really best to look on google maps and pick one nearby to wherever you might be on the day.

Go grab a takeaway coffee or a sandwich and find a quiet bench to sit on as you watch the seasons float on by.

A few of my favourites are Bloomsbury, Russell and Soho Square. Each with their own history, stories and famous plaques that are plastered on the affluent buildings nearby.  Cost: Free

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

Listing themselves as the most famous Botanic Gardens in the world, when you arrive you’ll see why.

You can visit for a whole day and still not see it all.  There are glass-houses, endless walking paths, treetop walkways, flower gardens as well as libraries of antique plant books, fungi specimens as well as a science, educational and specimen areas.  After all this, you might also want to recharge in the cafe, where you can sit and relax, enjoy the fresh food and endlessly green views.

Cost:     £13.75 for adults, £3.50 for children
Address: Kew Gardens

Chelsea Flower Show

This is a big colourful bonanza is held once year in May, and shows of the best of the best of the English flowers and gardens.  You’ll see where the term an ‘English Garden’, comes from, as it’s certainly no half-baked affair.  This is a serious business!

For the those of us that are easily enchanted by the colours, shapes, and smells of all that flowers offer us, it is the perfect way to spend an afternoon.

The Royal Horticultural Society can be found here and hosts a range of events throughout the country, so even if you are not in London in May, you can visit their calendar to find other events that may be of interest.  Website: Chelsea Flower Show

There is an incredibly beautiful movie based on the real-life story of Mary Reynolds. Who was the youngest winner of the Chelsea Flower Show. She works to bring elements of the wild back into our parks and gardens.

The Dare to be Wild Movie can be found on Amazon.

Hackney City Farm

There aren’t just lush green gardens to visit, in some places you can also pitch in and get your hands dirty. You can even visit and pet the animals on the farm, stop in at the shop and buy produce that is grown here on the farm.

Whether you have kids or if you just feel like doing something completely different while in town by visiting and supporting a local initiative, then head over to Hackney City Farm. The cost to visit: Free

Haringey Parkland Walk and Bat Project

There is a lovely Parkland walk in North London. It will take you along an old railway line, which is so incredibly rich in foliage you may be mistaken for thinking that you are in the countryside.  You’ll come across an old unused station that nature has reclaimed, and at the end of the walk you can visit the local Bat Project.

The bats are sleeping, undisturbed during the day, which is why it’s most shut off to the public.  However, it still has is a gorgeous spot in an ‘Adam’s Family kind of way’.

There are always ongoing projects to protect wildlife around London. If you would like to keep an eye on what is going on, or if you live or are visiting for a longer period you can volunteer and participate in the projects by going to Wild London website.

Cost: Free
Address:  Parkland Walk, Haringey
Map and information here

Visiting these Lush Green Foreign worlds without having to step outside:

For those that would love some inspired reading, either while you are on the tube (underground) or have a long-haul destination.

Or perhaps you are an armchair traveller, you can still enjoy it all from the comfort of your own home.

I highly recommend these books to put you in the mood, or to inspire your love of nature, travel and endless green gardens:

• The Signature of Things by Elizabeth Gilbert.
• Gathering Moss, A Natural and Cultural History of Moss, by  Robin Wall Kimmerer.
• Earthy joys by Philippa Gregory, Historical, Fictional and Green.
• The Secret Life of Plants & The Hidden Life of Trees will have you looking at plants and trees in a whole new way.  Did you know they’re telepathic? That they faint before you even think of riping a leaf off… so much fascinating reading.

Greenery is always is worth visiting:

Wherever you go, even in the biggest cities in the world finding a bit of time to enjoy the greenery around us is beneficial to us, our health and beneficial to the plants and trees. It’s our appreciation and involvement that keeps local councils aware of the importance of these spaces in our lives. Whether we live there or we are just a visitor passing by, we all need a little bit of greenery and fresh air in our lives.

Other articles/ resources that may interest you:

Stunning green Spaces in London via Secret London
Tours by locals 
25 Stunning Green Space in London by Timeout

Stunning photos, thanks to:
Hampstead Heath Photo by Amadeusz Misiak on Unsplash
Kew Gardens:        Photo by Jack Young on Unsplash

With a wave of a magic wand, I take you back in time

Imagine you wake up in your quaint Cotswold cottage, the year is 1773. You make your way into the main room, squeezing past the immense dobby loom. This state of the art weavers loom takes up most of the cottage’s space with its 4x3x4 meter frame. You yawn, stretch and make your way over the gruel that’s left for you. Your partner and the kids have already gone to work in the Fulling Mill nearby.

It’s the start of the new era. The invention of the flying shuttle now means you can man your loom alone; no help needed. This increases the work that you can do in a day. You taste the future and the world seems full possibilities.

You eat finish your gruel, get dressed and start work. You push the lever down with your foot, pull the release for the shuttle and beat down the threads.

Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat…

On and on. After an hour, you stretch your muscles, they ache, it’s always the same, always in the same spots. But what can you do, the fabric has to be made. You know firsthand, having learned the hard way – that you need to keep a rhythm, so the cloth remains even. You need to keep a steady tandem going for the rest of the day. That will be for another 13 hours. You start to sing your favourite rhyme; it’ll keep you going and give you a steady beat to work by. It’s only 13 more hours, just like it was yesterday and just like it will be tomorrow:

Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat. Push, pull and beat…

With a wave of a wand, I take you back to the present.

Are you tired yet? I felt tired when I saw the looms and heard how many hours the weavers once worked. They worked on looms so big that it left no room in the cottage for furniture. Which, considering people worked 14 hour days, there was little to no time for lounging anyway.

I learned all about the history and process of weaving on a recent tour of two Mills in Nailsworth. Located in the once prosperous Cotswolds valleys of the United Kingdom. The last tour, of Ebley Mill, covered the local history and the building itself. While, the tours of Gigg and Dunkirk Mill go more into the art of weaving and making cloth, as well as its evolution over time.

Learning to Weave at Gigg Mill

I am not new to weaving, as I have done workshops in the past. Yet, nothing that could have prepared me for the size of the Looms at Gigg Mill. Our tour guide taught us about the process and terminology before letting us try out hand on the smaller loom. He then demonstrated how the flying shuttle works on the larger loom. John Kay invented the shuttle back in 1973, pretty high tech for the time.

There is also a machine loom on site, which once again sped up the process of weaving, as you can see in the photos the were mills full of them. We saw it in briefly in action, what a heavy, noisy affair.

A Quick stop for Photographs at Egypt Mill

While Egypt Mill isn’t part of the tour. It is a stunning refurbishment of an old Water Mill into a bar, restaurant, and hotel. While in all honesty the food and coffee were below par – it is still worth stopping at for a few photos.

I recommend walking from Gigg Mill to Dunkirk, you not only get to pass Egypt Mill on the way. But the path itself is a picturesque footpath/bike lane and part of the famous Cotswold way. It weaves through the trees and alongside the river that would have once powered the Mills.

Finishing off the Cloth at Dunkirk Mill

In recent years, Durnkirk Mill has been transformed into stunning apartments. A caveat for getting planning permission was to keep on of the old water wheels functioning as it once did. And to allow the Stroudwater Textile Trust to run a small museum in the building.

It in this museum we get to learn about the last steps in the process for making cloth. We learned about Fulling; that bangs and squashes the cloth. This binds the fiber together, creating a thicker, felt like cloth. There are two machines, the guide turned one on for a few seconds. Which was a complete assault on the senses.

It is so loud and violent that it leaves my teeth clattering, and their vibrations echoing through my skull. I have no idea how anyone could be anywhere in the vicinity, let alone work there day and night. I am not surprised to hear that those that worked in the mill were deaf.

But, the next machine was still a finer invention than the one before, which had you stomping in a barrel. Similar to making wine. Only instead of grapes, they added ammonia and fullers earth. Which doesn’t sound too bad until you hear at the time the natural ammonia would have been urine. So, not sure if I would rather be stomping in urine or deaf… Not great choices.

Thankfully, there were newer improved inventions that followed.

A Power of a Water Mill in Action

It was an incredible thrill to see the large water mill turned on (see video below). Its exceptional bulk takes up much of the space. Luckily it is well protected to stop anyone falling in. Its power vibrates through the entire room. You can’t help but wonder what it would have been like with four of these wheels turning and all the machines in action.

At present the mill powers two machines; a modernised version of the fulling machine. The second raises the cloth by stroking the fabric with a teasel brush. Teasels are part of a plant that looks like a burr-weed. These were put into the brush by a special teasel setter.

The photo here is of the last teasel setter, who has since passed away. I always find it sad that complete knowledge of a craft can die with someone. An age-old specialism that will no longer be passed on down and through generations.

The fluff from the teasels was cleared off the brush by children. A sure sign that they worried somewhat less about health, safety or child labor back in the day.

The shearing the cloth

One of the last treatments in creating such a fine cloth was the shaving off any excess fibres. A tough job and a dangerous skill. Should you get it wrong you’d not only ruin the cloth but also lose a body part.

Later, they evolved this action into a rotating machine you see in the photo here. Which coincidently lead to the invention of the lawnmower. Obviously, the cloth wasn’t the only thing that needed to be kept in good order.

Last sentiments on the woven fabric of our Textile History

It was a huge thrill to see the Mills in action and to learn so much about the whole weaving and cloth making process.

There is a part of me that is sad about losing the craftsmanship and knowledge of the industry as machines take over and production moved overseas.

There are only a few working mills left here in the United Kingdom. One of them is nearby, making high-quality cloth for professional billiard tables.

While nostalgic for the loss of an era. I question the work and physical effort, and side effects of working in the mill. I don’t believe I could with those machines going night and day.

I prefer weaving as a hobby, same as knitting, something I do in small quantities for the pleasure and joy of it. I am sure those who were weaving for 14 hours a day, or working in the factory would have had that luxury.

Still, the textile industry made a difference to the economy. Whether it was for ships sails, with which to go off and discover faraway shores. Blankets, uniforms to the very clothes that have kept us humans warm for centuries.

For me, it will always be a magical process. The weaving together of thread to create a piece of cloth. A cloth that can then be cut, sewn and fitted into endless possibilities.

It brings to mind the mythology of the Moirai (The 3 fates), who spun together each person’s destiny at the moment of birth.

With this magic, perhaps we can weave together a future, where we keep the craftsmanship. While finding new ways to make fabric, in a more sustainable and harmonious way. Thankfully, trends like the slow fashion movement are attempting just that.

The tours put on by organisations such as the Stroudwater Textile trust help to share the knowledge, passion, and history with us. So that these stories are remembered, acknowledged and passed on.

A big warm-hearted thank you to our guide, who worked in the industry all his life, and who was incredibly knowledgeable. Thank you to the Stroudwater Textile Trust for organising these tours at such affordable prices. For opening and sharing the stories and heritage of these Mills with us.

If you’d like to do a tour yourself, check out their website for times and availability.

Dunkirk Mill

Wool

Teasel Brush

The factory

Raising the Cloth

The Shuttle

Woven Cloth

Egypt Mill

Pre and post finishing

Teasel Setter

Our weaving

Cloth in Action

Woven fabric Pillow

Dunkirk Mill

Fulling Hammer

Dobby Loom

Shearing the Cloth

The old Machines

Shuttles

Egypt Mill Terrace

The Flying Shuttle

For those wishing to learn more about the stories of the Mill, I’ve just found a book and tv series about life of the children in the Cotton Mills further north in the UK. Fascinating read, and TV series which was based on a few of the stories that came out of the archives:

Pilgrims are poets who create by taking journeys. Niebuhr

There are famous pilgrimages recommended by religious groups or there is the pilgrimage that one does for oneself.

It doesn’t have to be on foot or by any particular mode of transport. It is nothing more than the journey of getting to the desired destination, in any way or form.

For me, that desired destination was the Stone Circles in Avebury, Wiltshire. I’ve travelled through the Netherlands, France and the rest of the UK, with buses, trains, and ferries to reach it.

I left Australia with the wild urge to sit in Stone Circles and visit the sacred sites of Europe. Walk the paths of my ancestors and distant kin, touching the earth of those that went before me.

So, why would anyone want to visit Avebury, a place that is often seen as the poor cousin of the ever famous Stonehedge? While in reality, it is not less, but so much more.

Why visit the Stone Circles in Avebury?

This sacred Neolithic site is the largest set of Stone Circles out of the thousands in the United Kingdom, and in the world.

It is also much older than other sites. The sites dating though is sketchy and I’ve heard everything from 2600BC to 4500BC. While this is still up for discussion as some researchers say that it is even older others say that it’s younger.

None of us was there, so who knows…

Despite the fact that it is a major World Heritage site, it is not shut off to the public. This means that you can walk around the stones, touch, sit next to them. You can visit the site at your own pace and in your own way.

Avebury is accessible by public transport, buses stop in the middle of the village. Visiting Avebury and walking among the stones is totally free. Considering that Stonehenge costs £19.50, and you can’t even go near the stones, this is a bonus.

Visiting Avebury is a full day out. As well as the stone circles on the site, there is also the avenue of stones that you can follow. These take you down to the West Kennet Long Barrow and Silbury Hill. There is also a museum and manor on the site that is run by the National Heritage Trust.

Avebury itself is also worth visiting for the energies alone. It’s situated in the centre of St. Michael’s Ley Line. These are energy lines that run over and through the earth, St Michael’s is one of the most well known as it is host to many sacred sites. This leads me on to a few things you may not know about the site:

What you may not know about Avebury:

As with many sacred sites, I recommend you get an alternative guide or do your own research before going. Mainstream guides or archaeologists rarely ask big questions. Nor are they up-to-date on the latest research.

Luckily, there are many who have done their own research. In one experiment, researchers planted electrodes at Avebury. In doing so they tested the earth’s telluric energy field at various times of the day. It showed that the ditch around the site harness’s the earth’s ground current and sends it back to the entrance of the site.

Other tests at stone circles show that energies spiral towards the centre of the site. The stones act as resonators and hold the energy during most of the night before releasing it at sunrise.

The late John Burke once tested the magnetism of the site. Tests showed that every large stone on the outer circle is magnetically facing north. And that its magnetic orientation leads on and connects it to the next stone in the circle.

As a stone’s magnetic energy occurs naturally while the stone is being made, aeons ago. It’s incredible that people so far back could not only be aware of this magnetic field but could measure it. Using those measurements to bring the stones together in such a precise alignment – this can’t be a fluke.

Avebury and Stonehenge are both situated on St. Michael’s ley lines. Both of them have avenues and both were used for ceremonies at certain times of the year. Many of Englands Crop Circles also appear between the two sacred sites.

Avebury from Yesterday to Today:

Avebury has had an interesting past. As many of the sacred sites we can only guess at its real use, and who built it and why.

There are all sorts of theories of how the stones were transported and then leveraged into place.

There are those believe that sound could have lifted and moved the stones. Others believe that it would a system of pulleys, some people believe it may have been giants. In all honesty, we may never know.

During medieval and religious times fanatics removed the stones. As the church believed that the stones had been a place of heathen worship and put there by the devil.

The site later went through a period of restoration. The stones put back together, and some in different spots. They added other stone markers for stones that were missing. While it’s not exactly how it was – it still as impressive today as it would have been in the past.

Has all this interference affected the power of this sacred site?

The Energies at Avebury of the Stone Circle

While there have been tests on the energy and the acoustics. How tangible is that for everyday people like you and me?

Now I can’t speak for you 🙂 For me, the energy at Avebury was both tangible and phenomenal. I could feel it the moment I arrived, it was so thick I could have sliced it with a knife.

I wandered about and touched all the stones. While I didn’t feel that one stone that was stronger than another one. I did notice that when I sat in the centre or was in-between the stones, I could feel a resonance of their energy working together.

All in all, it was an incredible experience – although it floored me for the rest of the day (May also be the 3 hours on a bus there and 2 hours back). It was well worth the four-month pilgrimage across land and sea. To finally come to the heart of hearts of European Sacred sites and Stone circles.

In all honesty, I can’t wait to go back.

What to know before you go:

The main reason I’d like to go back is to not only experience the energies all over again. But to also to have more time to explore the area. It’s a bigger site than I anticipated. So, I didn’t have enough time to go down the avenue and to visit Silbury Hill and the West Kennet Long Barrow. Which I would have like to have done.

Remember to bring a packed lunch. Or make sure you are on-time to eat at the village pub, which stops serving food during the day. There was a pop-up café near the National Trust Entrance, but that smelt a bit funny, so bring food or be on time.

As with most sacred sites, taking your time and be mindful. For me, this means no mindless chatter. Nor yelling at others to try to prove that you are more spiritual than them. Yes, this was what one lovely lady happened to be doing.

Take some quiet time, centre yourself, and be open to the energies that are there. Sit somewhere quiet and ponder, meditate or just be. Stew in that and see how it feels.

Each sacred site can set alight a spark in us if we allow it to – it’s a site that people have done ceremonies and that special stones have been put in place to bring together the strongest of energies. What we chose to do, feel or not feel is of course up to us.

We do ourselves and others visiting the site a favour, if we can visit them in a way that is respectful, full of reverence and good intentions.

For me, the pilgrimage goes, on. I heard the other day there are over 1000 stone circles in the United Kingdom, so I am sure Avebury isn’t the last on my list. To me, life itself is a pilgrimage. And sacred sites like Avebury make the journey that we are on, all the more magic.

Resources for visiting Avebury

Manon Tromp:  Offers tours of Avebury and Stonehenge, may also have night passes at certain times of the year if you would like to join a ceremony
Invisible Temple, Freddy de Silva – Freddy does tours and has published a few great books on sacred sites and temples.
Stone Circles website – lists all many of the main stone circles in the British Isles
Earth Ancients Interview with Hugh Newman that covers the Stone Circles and more research in greater detail.
Megalithomania – annual UK event that focuses on Megalithic structures, great speakers. Hugh Newman who runs the event and site has also authored great books on the subject.
Sacred sites website
National Trust Website
Steve Marshall has a great book called exploring Avebury, here is also one of his talks from the Megalithomania Event.
More information on West Kennet Long Barrow

p.s. Disclaimer: I don’t use wikipedia, I believe their word usages, biased point of view and censorship of certain content supports a wholly mainstream agenda – which I don’t agree with. Plenty of much better information out there!